AMO Wall new routes and Seal Cove update

[Jeff Thomson]

As kindly pointed out under the original AMO wall thread, the topo and descriptions (I'm not the best Topo artist, sorry!) for the AMO Wall are now available at the Quickdraw Publications Web-site. I am very interested in hearing what people think of the grades on my new routes there.

I also added a few more routes at Seal Cove and those can also be found at the Quickdraw site. The new routes at Seal Cove are not as clean as I would like them to be, but i have run out of time to finish them right now. I will finish cleaning them as soon as I get a chance and the weather cooperates.

Here is the link;

http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Fr ... loads.html

[ras]

I am very interested in hearing what people think of the grades on my new routes there.

I'm not sure what ".10 =" means for Into the Mystic, but I thought the second pitch was at least 10+, based on not being able to do it... !

Also, not sure what that one stray bolt up left of the route is for, it looked like an independent direct route to anchor under the arch, but its a pretty exposed high step with loooong fall potential.

[Jeff Thomson]

Thanks Ras. You may well be right regarding the grade. I felt it was solid 10, but not hard 10, when I first climbed it. However last time I did it I thought it seemed harder. Maybe some features came off or smoothed over. Did you try any of the other routes?

Regarding that lone bolt. There was an old rusty 1/4 bolt there when I started working on that wall and so I felt i should replace it, but not add more. It is actually fairly easy to get to and you can avoid the harder start of that 2nd Pitch of "Into the Mystic". Maybe it would be wiser to just remove it so people do not get lured off track?

[Peter]

Back in the game, I love it! Good stuff Jeff.

[enchanted]

Nice Jeff! I haven't been back to Seal Cove in years. The last time might have been with you. We should go back sometime. It would be good to climb with you again.

[Jeff Thomson]

Hi Jack and Peter,

Thanks you guys and nice to hear from you!

Jack,

We should definitely get out again! I am away for the next 5 weeks with work, but when I get back we will hopefully have some nice autumn slab weather to enjoy.

[ras]

Thanks Ras. You may well be right regarding the grade. I felt it was solid 10, but not hard 10, when I first climbed it. However last time I did it I thought it seemed harder. Maybe some features came off or smoothed over. Did you try any of the other routes?

Regarding that lone bolt. There was an old rusty 1/4 bolt there when I started working on that wall and so I felt i should replace it, but not add more. It is actually fairly easy to get to and you can avoid the harder start of that 2nd Pitch of "Into the Mystic". Maybe it would be wiser to just remove it so people do not get lured off track?

Didn't have a chance to try anything else, so I can't really compare. I got lured off track. Maybe I'm just a chicken-s**t, but at that point its a good 15 (or more?) feet down to the last bolt. Falling would not be an option.

For what its worth, I'd suggest pulling it. Its confusing, detracts from the route you made (which is really nice), and while it allows skipping some of the hard stuff, still delivers you to the spot where I bailed from!

[ras]

... but when I get back we will hopefully have some nice autumn slab weather to enjoy.

I hope so, too, but its hard to keep the hope alive when looking at the weather forcast.

[timelessbeing]

EDIT: Found the topo. Would be nice to be able to upload it to the forum.

[squamish climber]

Email me the topo and I will post it on the forum.

[Lurch]

The topos disapeared just before the new guidebook came out. I was at Seal Cove last weekend and tried one of the new routes,

Bubble Buddy 5.8

Kieran Brownie Photo
The route goes straight up where I am not right up the dirty crack where I went.

There is a 10c left of me and the Dyke below me goes at 5.8. all climbs require a couple pieces of gear, Bubble Buddy takes more. There is a new 10d above the tree ledge to the right.

Kieran on Lost Horizon 10b


One of the 10d bolts can be seen in the background.

Seal cove is such an amazing place..

[timelessbeing]

Holy sh*t, that's my buddy Kevin belaying me in pic #1. I chatted briefly with Kieran about Skywalker. It was a great day to be out. Thanks for posting the pictures.

[squamish climber]

Seal Cove does look amazing nice photos Mike - thanks.

Here is the topo for seal cove kindly sent to me after the link disappeared by Mr Timeless.

[dakine]

Nice looking setting too bad it's all slab

[Lurch]

Not true dakine. there are three or four cracks there plus an offwidth at the far end. What's wrong with slab? A good climber should be well rounded you know