Yukon Gold

[marc_leclerc]

I re-cleaned and freed 'Yukon Gold' on the North Walls. It's a great route with some really excellent climbing. The crux 2nd pitch went all free at 12+ or 13- with a couple very hard moves in a shallow corner, followed by more technical climbing in a deeper corner before the crack open up again. It's easy enough to pull on the pins and make it 5.11. On pitch 3 be EXTREMELY CAREFUL of the flake above the belay, do not place gear behind it... better yet maybe try to climb the thin corner to the right that I cleaned up rather than climbing the flake itself. The route is great, and if you pull on the pins at the crux, an easier way to continue to the top of the wall than 'The Calling'. Freeing the crux is super fun and technical! Have fun!

[Brendan]

Pics or it didn't happen

So is this the FFA?

[marc_leclerc]

Yes, its the FFA. Going up again today to free the whole thing in one shot. Might get some pics

[Andre Ike]

Nice work! Brittany Griffith and I climbed this in 2004 and heres my two cents: Your right about the flake, its spooky. I was surprised Matt did not put a bolt on the left wall as it sure seemed to make sense to have one considering the gear would likely rip and its steep climbing off the belay. As well, the White Pillar on pitch 5 is an off width with a VERY SHARP EDGE. Taking a whipper on this pitch is not an option. We layed it back and I am pretty sure that was how it was first freed. Finally, the last pitch is long and we decided to break it up. There is a good stance for a gear belay so the leader can enjoy the last pitch over the roof (awesome) without rope drag. I think it is burlier than the Calling, particularly because of the White Pillar crux.

[marc_leclerc]

Thanks for the input Andre? Did you have a go at freeing the crux pitch when you did the route? I need grade verification for that one! The White Pillar is quite spectacular!