New Sully's Hangout Topo (Version 1.12)
New Sully's Hangout Topo (Version 1.12)
Hello again kids,
We've posted a new Sully's Hangout topo. This new version is 1.12. You can download it in the Maps, Crags & Topos area.
Changes:
1) Updated north wall diagram with more accurate rock features
2) Updated north wall diagram with route numbers, bolts, and anchors for new #2 and #3 routes A Bunch of B.S. and The Rookie
3) Added beta for new #2 and #3 routes A Bunch of B.S. and The Rookie
4) Gave Little Lulu two stars because of high traffic and because I really do like the climb
5) Renamed Challenger to Back Door Party, and added beta info
6) Updated beta on In the Bubble, now graded 5.12b/c due to reported hold brokage
7) Moved topo version number to top of document instead of end of document
Just a couple reminders to PLAY SAFE and PLEASE RESPECT THE ACCESS SITUATION
We've posted a new Sully's Hangout topo. This new version is 1.12. You can download it in the Maps, Crags & Topos area.
Changes:
1) Updated north wall diagram with more accurate rock features
2) Updated north wall diagram with route numbers, bolts, and anchors for new #2 and #3 routes A Bunch of B.S. and The Rookie
3) Added beta for new #2 and #3 routes A Bunch of B.S. and The Rookie
4) Gave Little Lulu two stars because of high traffic and because I really do like the climb
5) Renamed Challenger to Back Door Party, and added beta info
6) Updated beta on In the Bubble, now graded 5.12b/c due to reported hold brokage
7) Moved topo version number to top of document instead of end of document
Just a couple reminders to PLAY SAFE and PLEASE RESPECT THE ACCESS SITUATION
Hey fyi
I was working on a new route to the right of The Rookie, I managed to get both The Rookie and A Bunch of BS dirty. Then it rained... the 2 routes are dirty at the moment and caution is advised unless you don't mind brushing off the holds as you go...
will re-clean them next time im up.
btw, new route will go at probably 5.8... will be a great beginner route.
cheers,
sandbag
I was working on a new route to the right of The Rookie, I managed to get both The Rookie and A Bunch of BS dirty. Then it rained... the 2 routes are dirty at the moment and caution is advised unless you don't mind brushing off the holds as you go...
will re-clean them next time im up.
btw, new route will go at probably 5.8... will be a great beginner route.
cheers,
sandbag
Anchors...
im in the process of slowly replacing the rings on some routes due thier popularity.
I have currently added chains w/ a carabiner to My One Muscle for easier cleaning. Remember that these biners are for lower off and not top ropping. Please use a set of draws or any other type of rigging.
cheers,
im in the process of slowly replacing the rings on some routes due thier popularity.
I have currently added chains w/ a carabiner to My One Muscle for easier cleaning. Remember that these biners are for lower off and not top ropping. Please use a set of draws or any other type of rigging.
cheers,
Holds broken on "In the Bubble"
I was on "In the Bubble" on Sunday and a couple of holds broke. I guess that means that I need to lose some weight. 
The first fold to break was a small nubbin just after the 3rd bolt at the very large move (dyno?). The resulting scar is a positive crimp and the resulting move is now much easier. The second hold was the foothold that I was using to do the large move near the top of the route between the horizontals. To me the move felt easier with the resulting scar (a sloping crimp as opposed to a rounded nubbin) but my climbing partners didn't seem to like the scar.
I would suggest a downgrade to 12- as a result of these broken holds.
Jeremy
The first fold to break was a small nubbin just after the 3rd bolt at the very large move (dyno?). The resulting scar is a positive crimp and the resulting move is now much easier. The second hold was the foothold that I was using to do the large move near the top of the route between the horizontals. To me the move felt easier with the resulting scar (a sloping crimp as opposed to a rounded nubbin) but my climbing partners didn't seem to like the scar.
I would suggest a downgrade to 12- as a result of these broken holds.
Jeremy
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