Missing hanger on Hairpin 10d pitch

[PFisher]

There is a missing hanger on the third bolt of the 10d slab pitch on Hairpin at Papoose. The bare bolt is still there but there's no hanger, no nut or anything. It makes an exciting run out to the next bolt. I didn't have a spare hanger with me when I climbed it Sat so it's still naked.

[damien]

I'm not totally sure, but I think that is a contested bolt.

[Axel]

Contest it all you want but next time I get back up there it is going back. If it gets removed again I'm going to go back and reclaim every piece of hardware that I put into the Papoose. Then you guys can go back to doing the same 2 damn routes that everyone did before I cleaned it.

[smallman]

Ahhh... even more squamish bolt chopping territorial pissing. Squamish needs to develop a climbing COMMUNITY where the egos don't overshadow the public good. Crags are on CROWN land, except the MALAMUTE.

[damien]

I guess i was mistaken. Just what I'd heard. Regardless, it would have been great to have that hanger there. When I climbed it last year I used a wired nut to "necktie" the bolt which I am never to thrilled about.

[jefffski]

there is a horizontal crack just above the bolt that takes good gear.

fun pitch--i have yet to redpoint that move.

[Brendan]

That hanger has been missing for years.

If you feel so inclined to clip it, then just tie off a shoulder length sling to it.

[Anders Ourom]

It was nice that someone has taken an interest in the Papoose, and cleaned it up a bit. Lots of nice intermediate length routes there. I did Hairpin again a few years ago, for the first time in years.

From a distance, it looked like the fixed pins at the crux of Limbo had been removed. The part where it's quite polished and steep, and you mantle onto a horizontal crack that turns vertical. There are some bolts nearby - are they for the route that crosses Limbo, and do you just place natural gear in the crack if you're doing Limbo? (The pins were mine - Eric fixed them, the bastard. I'd be happy to have them back for a souvenir.)

Also, there was a new bolt just before the belay at the end of the first pitch of Hairpin. It was right beside a vertical crack, on fairly easy ground, and didn't seem needed. Anyway, just curious.

[Axel]

The bolt on the easy ground before the first belay on the first pitch of Hairpin was there before I cleaned it. I wasn't sure what it's purpose was but it was old and rusty so I just replaced it. It has since been removed.

The bolts nearby Limbo are for Survival enhancement. Great pitch if you haven't done it.

Chris Joseph cleaned Limbo last year or the year before. He may have your pins.

Ya, the Papoose has some great lines and almost always sure not to be busy.

[Brendan]

Off topic, but what is the bolted climb to the left, and pulling through the roofs right of Pamplemousse?

[paulc]

also off topic, what is the free grade on the direct start to hairpin (the Mclane guide indicates this is Hairpin Curve A3).

11c?

P

[dgauley]

The bolted line going through the roofs right of pamplemousse is 10+/11-.
I cleaned, and retroed Pamplemousse, added a new station, and direct start. It goes directly to the first pitch on hairpin, and is about 11c. So pamplemousse has 3 pitches, 11c,11a/b,12b.

[Brendan]

The bolted line going through the roofs right of pamplemousse is 10+/11-.
I cleaned, and retroed Pamplemousse, added a new station, and direct start. It goes directly to the first pitch on hairpin, and is about 11c. So pamplemousse has 3 pitches, 11c,11a/b,12b.

So where does this route start/finish?

[dgauley]

Direct start starts about 20m left of start of hairpin. Follows cracks and seams up and right to 4 bolts(crux) and first anchor of hairpin.
Pamplemousse follows finger splitter left to bolted station. Mixed route branches right off this pitch through roofs right of pamplemousse to rap anchor. Pamplemousse boulders through roof one bolt +gear to rap anchor, or 5.7 dirt to top out.

[Brendan]

Thanks