question about new looking route at Octopus' Garden / Bluffs

[martin]

Whoever can answer this!
A few weeks ago when climbing in Squamish for two days I visited Octopus' Garden, having heard about the beautiful cracks there. I found a bolted slab route right of a 5.7-crack in the left area of the cliff. (Sorry we have no guide book information at hand, so I cannot give the name)
Having done this crack I set up a toprope for the slab which was hard but very beautiful to climb. We looked the route up in two different guide books other climbers had but couldn't find it. Could anybody help me out with name and grade? Thanks in advance.
Martin, Bavaria in Germany.

[Dru]

It's about 5.11d or so and was climbed maybe 2 years ago so it isn't in any guidebooks but you can find it in the new routes book at Climb-On if you look hard enough. Maybe on this website too?

[martin]

Hey, that was a quick reply. Thank You!
I would have given it that rate. I have tried for half an hour and did not find information about that route; this led me to post the question.
Martin

[Dru]

Apparently I said here it is a 12a
http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... php?t=1975

I can't remember which grade is correct, I top-rope flailed up it once, and it felt hard to me but I can't really tell the difference between 11d and 12a anyhow.

[Brendan]

maybe talk to Harry... i'm 99% sure he did the FA

[slevarg]

Hi Martin,

I like the fact you are from Germany.
I am from Quebec.
I love Squamish.
I have lived here since 2004.

At my first visit at Octopus Garden I top roped the slab you are questioning about.
I love this kind of climb.
It didn't take me much to decide to clean it and put some bolts.
At first I put 6, but some people got very scared.
I added a few to make it friendly and safe like the Bluffs were for me at that time.

I named it Leonissisation.
For my niece Leonie.
The grade, like many slabs, is weather dependent.
Upon the first ascent I graded it at 12a.
I will not argue with people who think its 11+.

I am glad you enjoy the climb enough to be curious about it.
Many locals hate this route.
A lot of bolts on a hard slab between two moderate cracks is apparently a faux pas for some locals.
I respect that... I like people who believe in something.

A believer will probably remove the bolts before your next visit.
But the route will still be there...for the aesthetic pleasure to move up like a spider.

Enjoy climbing!!

[Trick]

I climbed this yesterday on TR. I was glad to have the cooler temps!! Super fun route though. Very thin and balancy, just getting on the route is one of the funnest single moves.
Nice work!