new line at the bluffs

[slhughes]

did this yesterday, feb 25.

The Roark Building 5.12
FA: stewart hughes
at ronins area;
climb the usually dank elephantiasis for 10metres or so. make a long move right to a jug, traverse and downclimb to get the feet established on a big cobble at the base of the hanging arete/corner feature in the middle of the wall. above are three bolts and some chuffin' 'ard man's pinching of the hovis, bending around granite architecture and a range of holds that hold the displeasure of bad conditions like a winter seaside resort. two ropes were used on the ascent, the first of which i untied at the second bolt, mainly as an air of drama. i've no idea of the grade, so anybody trying it should get a hold of themselves and moderate a fountain of spray about diffuculty. thanks to numerous belayers and baby holders on what was quite a protracted redpoint. it is of course a wonderful route, and like me it is awesome too.

[Brendan]

Stewart, awesome job!! i'm stoked to send it next time i'm up there... here's a shot of Elephantiasis. draw in the route if you feel like.

b.

[XXXX]

damn, well done

that's been a "last great problem" for years now, i guess the direct start with the old metolius bolt is just too blank to go?

[slhughes]

aye, cheers. on the photo you can see the cobble at the base of the corner where you get established after the traverse. i never really examined the direct start closely. stewart.

[jaudenart]

Stewart, awesome job!! i'm stoked to send it next time i'm up there... here's a shot of Elephantiasis (it does look dank!). draw in the route if you feel like. Ooh aye, that does look like a jug out right, but where exactly is the hovis that the chuffer man pinches?

[slhughes]

my god, man. can we get an edit here? moderator. excuse me, moderator. can the previous poster be banned please? this is a climbing forum. it's supposed to be fun. i'm like, so disillusioned right now.

[Brendan]

Stewart, awesome job!! i'm stoked to send it next time i'm up there... here's a shot of Elephantiasis (it does look dank!). draw in the route if you feel like. Ooh aye, that does look like a jug out right, but where exactly is the hovis that the chuffer man pinches?

hahha. interesting first post Jay

[David_Trippett]

Mae'r defaid wedi bwyta fy brechdanau!

[slhughes]

mae'r defaid yma ydy hogan ddrwg iawn. cofiau: cymru am byth, gont.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1m2HJpGtv70

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1m2HJpGtv70

[slhughes]

comp/ter n0t my $Tr)ng p)int:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BzUoWMsTd4

[Brendan]

wft? haha.

[tradnazi]

[quote="slhughes"]mae'r defaid yma ydy hogan ddrwg iawn. cofiau: cymru am byth, gont.



Siarad Cymraeg?