Capilano Classic

[the alpine scrub]

Does anyone know where I can get my mitts on the topo for capilano classic? I heard its in the older Mclean guide but I've only got the 2005 edition.

Even if you've just got the directions for the approach I'd be interested.

[Dru]

Many libraries have the older edition.

From 2001 guide:

Turn left off Cap Rd onto Fish Hatchery Road. park in 200m.
Walk 100m into forest to rim of canyon. Rap HydroPower (2 double-rope raps) or scramble down 200m to north then travrse downstream to base.

Capilano Classic is 4 pitches.
p1 blunt rib 5.8
p2 traverse right past blocks and up to ledge 10c
p3 left and through bulges to steep ramp 11a
p4 from left end of narrow belay ledge, climb crack, finish yarding up roots/dirt (loose) 10b

Hydro Power is to the right and has no start from the river. Two raps down to hanging belay about 30m off the deck then 2 long pitches out.

1) climb a long ptch of face with mostly bolts but a couple of nut placements, 11c
2) easier-angled mossy face climbing with 2 bolts, 10b.

[J Mace]

This got cleaned up last year and new bolts and such. You now rap in from a big tree at the top of the climb. Its a 60m rap, so just use one rope tied off at the tree and another to climb out, I like using my 70 for this. You rap to the all bolted 10c pitch start. Pitch 2 as described above. This climb is relatively easy for the grade and mostly bolted. A small rack to gold is plenty.

The final 10b pitch has been cleaned up but you still need to transition from rock to forest floor...

rap


Final Mixed pitch

[Uncle Rico]

J Mace... Glad to see more people have visited the Classic. In so many ways it is a very cool route in a unique position (for Vancouver). The river approach described in Kevin's old guide isn't always possible and the original first pitch is terribly overgrown with rusty hardware - not worth the effort.

As you did, the best is to rap in for the big fir at the top, but this should be done with care, once a couple summer's ago I core-shot my rope on seemingly innocent edges at the lip. I've been down there about three times and typically try to use a static rope for this fixed rappel, and rap on a Grigri. Less experienced climbers will find this rappel a little... creepy. I believe it is actually 45 m down to the base of the first 'good' pitch (10c).

Im not sure when the bolts were added but it has obviously received a retrofit, which IMO opinion is a good thing. There's still plenty of spice to find on this route, especially on the final exit pitch.

It's not for everyone, but fun times if you're into local adventure! If you still want a more modern topo and description I have it all drafted; feel free to contact me off-forum.

Rich

[Brendan]

Wow J Mace that looks like an amazing (steep?) climb! Thanks for those pics!