Aidin' in squish this weekend

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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tattooed_climber
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Aidin' in squish this weekend

Post by tattooed_climber » Fri Jan 27, 2006 4:04 pm

stayin at the hostel......saturday i'll be in the bluffs...sunday who knows....

cell....604-771-5237
Nothing like the sound of thumpin' a piton first thing in the morning...

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Post by tattooed_climber » Sun Jan 29, 2006 2:22 pm

i ended up leavin sunday...

saturday was fun, till my first route turned into a waterfall....my bottom anchor (i was solo-aidin...leading) was funky yet bomber.....first three placements where bomber rurps.....wicked nut and peaker placements...then i came to a fucked up part that wouldn't take anthing...(i have yet to buy lost arrows in that size)...not stacked KB, i hammered in my peenuts, pop....i just bought a cam hook, but it was took small...so i had a cigar and some rye as i stared that that slimy POS crack for about a half hour...then the rain started to come down...the the micro-line was in a groove (i was in the bluffs by the way).....then i'm just getting soaked...but not bailing....i ended up stacking a KB with the cam hook making a ok a2 or 3 placement (a copper head would have been perfect but, alas, i have yet to buy any).......then some scary hooking on wet edges, 6m from the top i said f**k it and freesoloed the rest (a wet 5.6 i think)....rapped, cleaned, got the f**k out of there and staight to the brewpub.....

:mrgreen: all good though....i got to play with some of my new toys and my brand-spankin-new aiders i got. (no more 3/4 inch tied POS bulky aiders for me!)
Nothing like the sound of thumpin' a piton first thing in the morning...

PAW
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Post by PAW » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:36 pm

way to get out and suffer. My drive for hanging in the rain has surpassed having aided some many winter days. When the forecast looks a little less grim and the chance of local ice is totally gone then I'll give you a call so we can hook up and fly up wrist twister or something.

:D :D :D
:evil: GOOD ON YA, ah

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Post by psychedelic » Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:43 am

Right on... good to get out and climb!

Just to let ya know, I still use hand tied daisys. The best aider I've ever met(40ish VI A4-A5 FA) used handtied ones too. Cheap and you can make them to whatever fits your style.

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Post by PAW » Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:30 pm

I wondered when some sh*t talking was going to start on the sport forum with all the last posts being aid related.
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :? 8)
If you guys want we could ground up your sport routes on ladders and place the bolts instead of rapping down from the top. :evil:

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Post by tattooed_climber » Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:43 pm

meingh...that reminds me of a wicked climbing quote:
"Summit or death, either way I win."
-Rob Slater, before perishing on K2.

i think PAW may have just been joking man....he's an aid climber (which means assume he's drunk at ALL TIMES!)

:lol:
Nothing like the sound of thumpin' a piton first thing in the morning...

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Post by PAW » Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:32 pm

:evil: :evil: ....he's an aid climber (which means assume he's drunk at ALL TIMES!)
or high as a kite. 8) 8) 8) :mrgreen:

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Post by tattooed_climber » Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:54 pm

i like the way you think!!!!!!!!! :P lets go nail up a route!
Nothing like the sound of thumpin' a piton first thing in the morning...

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