Standard Squish Aid Rack

[tattooed_climber]

I'm in the process of building an aid rack...so far, my pro from the trad and some of my aid stuff is:

complete bolt kit
hooks (2 cliffhangers, 2 grapplings, 1 pointed logan and a talon)
dmm 3cus (full)
bd cams (.75 to 4, double gold)
#4 big bro
bd nuts
larger metolus nuts and hexs
sh*t loads of older slung pro
2 largest peenuts
pins (ONE OF EACH: one set of KBs, #1,2,3 Angles, 3 smaller arrows)
#1,2,3 ballnuts and #7abc technut
#.5 to 4 tricams (double pink)
#1 and 2 pecker
3 rurps
1 alien hydrid (yellow/green)


as well the basics:
2 sets of aiders,
2 daisies,
mini traxion,
2 pulleys,
solo tag rack
basic,
2 jugs,
grigri (yet to be modified, will prob get a 2nd due to the fact i use it at the gym i work at parttime),
fifis and adj fifi,
^^^as well as all the standards that went with the following^^^

i have 12 trad draws and 12 QDs

so fall on the shopping list
aliens (for now, a fullset of hydrids and regulars)SUGGESTIONS OF WHICH AND WHAT TO DOUBLE PLEASE
more hooks WHICH ELSE TO GET AND WHICH TO MODIFY
metolius easy daisies (2x)
a soloist device (mod grigri or yates rocker maybe)
tag line
more pins suggestions on which too
and lots of free biners WHich?i've held just go with traditional ovals, and the new school 'just spirits'

any other help/suggestions for the rack would too be great guys


cheers

[Cloudraker]

Dude get yerself some leeper cams...they totally kick a$%. Seeing that you're an absolute gear whore why don't you buy yourself a set of DMM HB offset nuts? I hear they're the shizzle for pin scars. Oh ya, don't forget a double portaledge with fly so we can do some sick routes in Yos in October.

[Cloudraker]

You don't have any bashies or rivethangers on your list?

[tattooed_climber]

ya...i forgot to add those to my shopping list there (rivet hangers and cam hooks)

bashies eh??....never smashed one before...

as for offsets, i should start a thread over on RCcola.com about them...i've just heard from over there that HB design will now be made by DMM or WC....i've hear no offical word as of yet..

[tattooed_climber]

oh yeah......i forgot...i really don't have an aid hammer (its a Grivel Alpine Hammer)...i bought the lightest hammer out there for the odd KB i need to pound for alpine....in the near future i'll prob get a yos hammer....i swing all sorts of hammers, mini-sluges and 20-30 lb sluges at work so i got the endurance i think for a lighter hammer)

..i think for shits and giggles i'll buy a roofing hammer or one of my work hammers or buy something cheap---and machining it down into an aid hammer (I work as a steel fab/welder/fitter...soon to me a machinist as well and my current shop has a machine shop )


which leads to my point, Clean vs. Nailing....kevin mclanes guide discribles general gear but seems to side with nailing i think....any input here is cool

I think its good to mention all my aid has been solo-aid on 5.11s (lots of back cleaning oh my god!) and TR-solo hooking so far....about 30 routes/POS i've done


NOTE...i'm not dropping cash for this right away.....mid summer i should have paid off all my loans so i'll be dropping a good 1000 towards aliens and other stuff

for that particular alien order...this is what i have in mind (but this is where i really need some input. and the aliens are for aid in general, not just squish)
*a full set of hybrids (4)
*doubles of black to yellow, a gray and a red (10)
^^^^which will bring me to 15 aliens

[erock]

My two most placed pieces of aid gear are, No 1 and 2 peenut. In fact, i'm not even sure if i've placed the largest one except when free climbing. RP nuts are good too but i find the taper on the peenut was as if it was made for squamish.

have fun!

[PAW]

trade the metolius adjustables for some yates ones you'll know why once you try them both.

as for hooks, a big flake hook is handy for squish. one cliffhanger file to a point.

as for doubles of aliens just back clean them and leave other gear for pro.

I second the dmm peanut comment as they are always working where nothing else does.

Lastly what sort of gear sling are you using, I definetly would advese away from the BD zodiac as i have had experience with the loops breaking in a big fall causing multiple 100's of dollars falling to the deck.
I have an extra a5 one if your are looking to pick one up.

Also send me an email if you are ever looking for a partner to do it up with. With your rack and mine it sounds like would could put a new route up on a big face in baffin and not need any sponsors.

[5.4 Slayer]

A word about Aliens - possible defect;
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/view ... 54#1285954

[tattooed_climber]

its offical, the recall that is, i just posted a link to the notice......ahhh...my poor lil hybrid i'll have to mail back....i'm glad i held back on ordering a sh*t load

[psychedelic]

Damn, this was posted recently so I will try and make a good reply. First off... forget about all the practice and go try something like Uncle Bens or Ten Years After. I spent far too long clean aiding single pitch routes and should have just gone and done El Cap after like what you describe having done. I don't really bother too much with exact gear lists for walls unless it is some weird piece of gear (big cams, tons of beaks, or you get the point). Here is what you will want for various types of routes.

Here is example racks for 3 levels. These racks will allow you to clip a lot of gear, by the time you hit Moderate you want to clip a lot of stuff cause you could fall really far. I'll put an example for Squamish and then Yosemite.

Also, when I climbed Uncle Bens in Squamish, we brought a really light rack. Forceing us to run it out really far! This is possible on routes that are really fixed and have shorter pitches. Climbing a big wall with a free rack is really nice!

Easy- Uncle Bens, Mescalito
3 arrow
beak
4ea cams to 2" (this is a lot for uncle bens)
3ea to 3"
2 each to 4" (sometimes ya won't need this)
1 ea nuts
hooks
a few heads

Moderate- Up From the Skys, Sherrifs Badge, Zenyatta Mondatta
2 beaks
8 arrows
6 blades
few angles
3ea cams to 3"
1 ea nuts
15-30 heads Just depends on how much is fixed
hooks

Hard- Skull f**k, Plastic Surgery Disaster
8-15 beaks
2 rurps
12 blades
12 arrows
2 ea angles to 3/4"
3 ea cams to 3.5"
1 ea nuts
40 heads
hooks(all types!)
keyhole hangers(RP are the best, keyholes are rad on hard routes)
OE800 will make you happier!

So, I start with something like this and then take away or add according to what I think the route may need. Don't just follow the gear list in a guide book. Sometimes it is way way off. But I think Matt or Andrew may still have a aid book in the works if it isn't out already. Not sure tho.

Forget the traxion for hauling... I almost broke mine. What you want is a basic ascender and a really good big pulley. This is way stronger and smother!

The new BD beaks are rad! #2 and #3 are so good where you place blades normally. I am now bringing less blades and more of these things. It is almost like cheating!

#5 arrow is a really good pin, kinda like a beefy knifeblade. Get some and file them into a dagger! They will sink into rotton rock and last a long time.

A good hammer is nice for routes with much nailing. But I'd still be willing to climb most routes with some hardware store hammer if I had didn't have the money. But ya I own 2 BDs and one is close to breaking.

I live ovals for racking pins and stuff. Forget those Omega Dovals... they break easy. Have a sh*t load of free biner that are durable and not too heavy. Lots of slings to keep the rope free of drag is nice.

Oh get a funkness device, this is really good for lots of things. I tape the biners to it so it doesn't cross load. You will need a real aid hammer to use this well tho.

Not really a need to modify the Gri Gri.. known plenty of people that have soloed a bunch of El Cap routes with it the way it is. Tie a back up knot tho.

Hooks... well looks like you are pretty good there. Maybe a big Pika hook. You should file at least one Cliffhanger and Grappling tho. Will give you some good bite!

For heading... get a big punch and then a dulled chisel. Find someone with a swager and have them attach wrist loops with clear tubing on them. You can just leave them on your wrist when you hit a section with lots of heading.

Well, I hope this will help you somewhat. I put a bunch of other thoughts out there for you. Feel free to ask more questions if you have them.

[tattooed_climber]

WOW Psychedelic, thanks alot for the beta dude......

Forget the traxion for hauling... I almost broke mine. What you want is a basic ascender and a really good big pulley. This is way stronger and smother!

I got the mini traxion for tagging, if and when i get a pig, i'll use a pulley and a basic (which i have)

The new BD beaks are rad! #2 and #3 are so good where you place blades normally. I am now bringing less blades and more of these things. It is almost like cheating!

more are on the ordering list, like i said, in afew months when my loans are paid with, i'll buy more of these (so i'll end up with 2 of each)

#5 arrow is a really good pin, kinda like a beefy knifeblade. Get some and file them into a dagger! They will sink into rotton rock and last a long time.

cool...i'll do this to one and see how she is, i'm assuming there's no difference between camp and bd LAs...all my arrows are camp (my bud just mailed me two old arrows (size 8 or 9)....Long/thin with the hooked end (nut tool)

A good hammer is nice for routes with much nailing. But I'd still be willing to climb most routes with some hardware store hammer if I had didn't have the money. But ya I own 2 BDs and one is close to breaking.

yose hammer next season probably or i'll machine my own for sh*ts and giggles

I live ovals for racking pins and stuff. Forget those Omega Dovals... they break easy. Have a sh*t load of free biner that are durable and not too heavy. Lots of slings to keep the rope free of drag is nice.

all my pins, peakers, hooks are racked on bd ovals

Oh get a funkness device, this is really good for lots of things. I tape the biners to it so it doesn't cross load. You will need a real aid hammer to use this well tho.

i'll remind my sport climbin' friend to make me some (he works at a wire-rope company)

Not really a need to modify the Gri Gri.. known plenty of people that have soloed a bunch of El Cap routes with it the way it is. Tie a back up knot tho.

my current setup for this is i have the grigri attacked to my harness belay loop via a 20cm slind and the grigri biner is also clipped to a sling chest harness....i use back up knots too....rope in pack

Hooks... well looks like you are pretty good there. Maybe a big Pika hook. You should file at least one Cliffhanger and Grappling tho. Will give you some good bite!

cool....i've heard alot about this....should i get an extra cliffhanger and grappling and file those OR file one of each of my current hooks???

For heading... get a big punch and then a dulled chisel. Find someone with a swager and have them attach wrist loops with clear tubing on them. You can just leave them on your wrist when you hit a section with lots of heading.

I'm currently a steel fab so i gots lots of extra punches....would a 1/8 cold punch be better than a dull centre punch? whatever......i'll machine holes or grooves into the ends so i can put a cable on it...onyl prob is, i don't think there's a swager small enough for #1 wire (or whatever would be best)

THANKS a BUNCH dude....i should buy ya a beer for that beta...sorry it took me a while to reply there...

[PAW]

But I think Matt or Andrew may still have a aid book in the works if it isn't out already. Not sure tho.

Forget the traxion for hauling... I almost broke mine. What you want is a basic ascender and a really good big pulley. This is way stronger and smother!

The new BD beaks are rad! #2 and #3 are so good where you place blades normally. I am now bringing less blades and more of these things. It is almost like cheating!

#5 arrow is a really good pin, kinda like a beefy knifeblade. Get some and file them into a dagger! They will sink into rotton rock and last a long time.

So thanks for these pieces of information.

Do you have contact info for Matt or Andrew I have some topos which have some specifics from a variety of routes that may help.

I still don't understand the problem with the mini traxion but will pick up a pulley and go back to the old school to give it a try.

The beaks #2, #3 sound awesome, I hadn't bought any yet cause of lack of knowledge and of really thin hard aid that involved hammering. But will definetly p/u now.

And the #5 lost arrow trick sounds like something that might work especially well in the alpine.

Thats what i was looking for in a squamish forum some good beta gear/routes with some local knowledge. I'm excited that you think upfromtheskies is a moderate route. It on top of the list now.

DOES ANYONE KNOW ALL OF THE NEW AID ROUTES DONE IN THE LAST 10YEARS. tHERE ARE A LOT ON ZODIAC WALL, SHERIFFS BADGE?, BALDE EGOS, BETWEEN THE DIKE AND ZORROS. mAYBE ITS A NEW TOPIC?

[psychedelic]

Matt's email is on his page... mattmaddaloni.com.

I haven't done much of squamish routes but I just threw those examples from what people I trust have told me who have done them. Someone told me a few years ago that a logical progression of Squamish aid was... Uncle Bens, Humpty Dumpty, Up from the Skys. Each being just a bit tougher than the one before that. I'd trust this judging by who told me it.

New aid routes... hmm, I know of Chris's new route on Zodiac, Matt's new route on Zodiac, Something about Misery, I Shot the Sherrif, Bald Egos, Straight White Male.

I'll have to look at the chisels, to know what size is what. Pretty much anything will work than can beat the sh*t out of it.

Some good practice routes right now would be the stuff in Zombie Roof area or Well Hung Roof area. Zombie has a bunch of these seems that are pretty dicey aiding. I noticed they aren't in the new guide book but, they are pretty much circle heads and thin pins. You end at the bolts that make up Savage Amusment. So you stay dry the whole time. Good fun but don't blow it! The ones in Well Hung Roof area are a bit easier except for this crazy big thin one, Twice Fallen None the Wiser or something like that.

[psychedelic]

Oh and hooks... you will eventully want like 2 of each. Pretty much 2 talons or leeper points, 2 cliffs, 2 grappling. That will get you up most aid pitches. I'd file one of each for now or the cliffs and grappling. You can even file you talons big point(i do).

There is this rad hook you can make from a cliff hanger. Tons of yosemite climbers use it and I noticed someone wrote a climbing tech tip a few years ago about it. Take a bunch of the tip off the cliff hanger then file it to a point. I think you take about 1cm off but I can't remember. I don't have any of my aid gear with me to look(all by yosemite).

[PAW]

U. Wall, Uncle Bens, Wrist Twister, Ten Years After, Zorros Last Ride, Cowboys and Indians, Humpty Dumpty.

Those are the routes I've checked out in squamish and the moderate rack suggestion has worked for these.

Looking foreward to Up from the Skies any takers??