Golden Scrub Brush Nominations Complete - Vote Now
Golden Scrub Brush Nominations Complete - Vote Now
Hi All:
Nominations for the 2015 Golden Scrub Brush Awards are now complete. Vote for your favorites here. https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/PC9HSNL
Below are the Back Stories for Best Name Nominees.
David Hasseloffwidth, 10d, J Redden, Top Shelf.
A clever play on words. At the start of this off width crack you feel like this:
At the end, you feel like this:
The Tumbler, 12c, Rogues Gallery, P Winter, 2015
"Peter was trying Fitness World at Rogues repeatedly this summer. On one attempt - I was belaying - he set off so focused on the hard climbing ahead that he lost balance on the 4th class climbing below the first bolt, and pirouetted backwards off the cliff. He cartwheeled about 8m back to the belay ledge then another similar distance down a small cliff underneath, ending up sprawled in salal and small trees. Amazingly he was mostly unhurt. He later completed a new route with the same start as FW but a different finish - this is The Tumbler." Toby Foord-Kelsey
The Daily Universe, 12c, Sherrif's Badge, T McLane, J. Ackermann, 2015
" Climbing the Daily Planet feels truly like entering one of those glass space tubes that suction you instantaneously from deck to deck of a colossal space craft. The line slingshots you upward towards the roof, one of the most improbable features on the entire Chief. The exposed, sucking void at your heels nature of the Badge is what inspired the comic book superhero theme with the route name. In Superman, Clark Kent gets off work, ducks into a janitorial closet, changes his clothes from suit to cape and flies straight out of an air duct and onto the sheer face of the skyscraper.
"On Aug. 21 this summer, a new route was established which threads its way up, around and through the Badge’s main roof. It’s a free climb that finally tackles the huge visor of The Sheriff’s Badge without resorting to direct aid. Tony McLane, son of local author and climber Kevin McLane, along with Argentinian guide and new local Jorge Ackermann, spent several weeks figuring out the complex line. Their effort is a big deal because it finally breaches the roof and traces a delicate line to Sasquatch Ledge without aid climbing – the last wall on the Chief that had not been free climbed.
The route has mandatory sections of difficult face climbing where a fall would put the leader so far out in space that they would need to ascent their own rope to reach the wall again and retreating from above the roof pitch is impossible without some inventive pre-rigging. Their route, dubbed The Daily Universe, fits perfectly with the exposed and serious nature of the aid routes, which climb terrain to the right. Ackermann and McLane have moved up from mere interns at The Daily Planet and are now the two news leaders, joining Clark Kent as employees with hidden powers. Great work, guys!" J Blummel, September 24, 2015 - Squamish Chief
- See more at: http://www.squamishchief.com/lifestyles ... rMq51.dpuf
Catharsis Crack. 10d, Tantalus Wall, MA Leclerc, B. Harrington. 2012
"The reason for the name Catharsis Crack is that I had initially suggested doing a 'new route' to a girl I was after, you know like an arts and crafts date for big kids who climb. She was stoked on the idea and even put in the first bolt, but a few days later told me things weren't gonna work between us. I was pretty gutted, and knowing that she really wanted to FA the route as badly as I did I went to finish the job alone as a sort of 'getting even'.
The thing was that that afternoon it was raining cats and dogs, and being an undercling traverse beneath an overlap the route was quite the running waterfall! As I self belayed out the arch, laden in gore tex, ice climbing boots, ski goggles and a drill on my harness I struggled to hold my breath each time I stuck my face into the torrent to eye up the next cam placement. Eventually one of those cams ripped from the flaring fissure sending me on a pendulum fall that I can assure was quite a lot more exciting than the one in the film, it was large enough to draw a decent quantity of blood from my hands and face. After this I added some extra bolts to prevent such things from happening again, and so that people might actually climb the route as I had clearly demonstrated that the gear was 'insufficient'.
Needless to say I went home that evening with much less anger in my heart, and a day or two later the girl let me know that our status had shifted from 'not happening' back to 'maybe'. I asked her if I could finish putting in the bolts, so that we could free the route together the next weekend... She agreed.
Being a young impressionable climber who had missed out on the stone master era, I decided that the route ought to be bolted in proper style. And so some funny paper accompanied me on the final push to equip the line. What followed is a bit fuzzy in my memory although I remember getting into A3 terrain before remembering that I was supposed to be placing bolts, and had to back aid to get the bolts where I needed. Later I found myself unable to judge whether the edges I was trying to hook were sloping or incut, no matter how hard I concentrated the damn things kept changing shape! I passed this crux by throwing a sideways dyno out of my etriers to a small tree, which I am sure is a key hold for those who repeat the line still. This was the last time the paper ever came out on a bolting mission, I don't know how Bridwell made that all work back in the day.
Anyways, the lovely lady and I freed the route a few days later finishing on Cerberus. The route was such a success that she only dumped me once more before finally deciding I was alright.
Labyrinth came a couple weeks later, when my housemate Luke and I spied the dyke leading from Cerberus over to the Wrist Twister proj where the difficulties end on that line. Hopefully someone repeats that soon." MA LeClerc.
A Game of Dog and Squirrel 11-, Valley of the Lost Tribe. C Small, 2013
"Flirtatious teasing and chatter leads to a vigorous chase ending in bewilderment and lots of barking up the wrong tree. Pretty analogous to the first ascentionist’s attempts at relationships with female climbers". C. Small from Valley of the Lost tribe topo
Nominations for the 2015 Golden Scrub Brush Awards are now complete. Vote for your favorites here. https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/PC9HSNL
Below are the Back Stories for Best Name Nominees.
David Hasseloffwidth, 10d, J Redden, Top Shelf.
A clever play on words. At the start of this off width crack you feel like this:
At the end, you feel like this:
The Tumbler, 12c, Rogues Gallery, P Winter, 2015
"Peter was trying Fitness World at Rogues repeatedly this summer. On one attempt - I was belaying - he set off so focused on the hard climbing ahead that he lost balance on the 4th class climbing below the first bolt, and pirouetted backwards off the cliff. He cartwheeled about 8m back to the belay ledge then another similar distance down a small cliff underneath, ending up sprawled in salal and small trees. Amazingly he was mostly unhurt. He later completed a new route with the same start as FW but a different finish - this is The Tumbler." Toby Foord-Kelsey
The Daily Universe, 12c, Sherrif's Badge, T McLane, J. Ackermann, 2015
" Climbing the Daily Planet feels truly like entering one of those glass space tubes that suction you instantaneously from deck to deck of a colossal space craft. The line slingshots you upward towards the roof, one of the most improbable features on the entire Chief. The exposed, sucking void at your heels nature of the Badge is what inspired the comic book superhero theme with the route name. In Superman, Clark Kent gets off work, ducks into a janitorial closet, changes his clothes from suit to cape and flies straight out of an air duct and onto the sheer face of the skyscraper.
"On Aug. 21 this summer, a new route was established which threads its way up, around and through the Badge’s main roof. It’s a free climb that finally tackles the huge visor of The Sheriff’s Badge without resorting to direct aid. Tony McLane, son of local author and climber Kevin McLane, along with Argentinian guide and new local Jorge Ackermann, spent several weeks figuring out the complex line. Their effort is a big deal because it finally breaches the roof and traces a delicate line to Sasquatch Ledge without aid climbing – the last wall on the Chief that had not been free climbed.
The route has mandatory sections of difficult face climbing where a fall would put the leader so far out in space that they would need to ascent their own rope to reach the wall again and retreating from above the roof pitch is impossible without some inventive pre-rigging. Their route, dubbed The Daily Universe, fits perfectly with the exposed and serious nature of the aid routes, which climb terrain to the right. Ackermann and McLane have moved up from mere interns at The Daily Planet and are now the two news leaders, joining Clark Kent as employees with hidden powers. Great work, guys!" J Blummel, September 24, 2015 - Squamish Chief
- See more at: http://www.squamishchief.com/lifestyles ... rMq51.dpuf
Catharsis Crack. 10d, Tantalus Wall, MA Leclerc, B. Harrington. 2012
"The reason for the name Catharsis Crack is that I had initially suggested doing a 'new route' to a girl I was after, you know like an arts and crafts date for big kids who climb. She was stoked on the idea and even put in the first bolt, but a few days later told me things weren't gonna work between us. I was pretty gutted, and knowing that she really wanted to FA the route as badly as I did I went to finish the job alone as a sort of 'getting even'.
The thing was that that afternoon it was raining cats and dogs, and being an undercling traverse beneath an overlap the route was quite the running waterfall! As I self belayed out the arch, laden in gore tex, ice climbing boots, ski goggles and a drill on my harness I struggled to hold my breath each time I stuck my face into the torrent to eye up the next cam placement. Eventually one of those cams ripped from the flaring fissure sending me on a pendulum fall that I can assure was quite a lot more exciting than the one in the film, it was large enough to draw a decent quantity of blood from my hands and face. After this I added some extra bolts to prevent such things from happening again, and so that people might actually climb the route as I had clearly demonstrated that the gear was 'insufficient'.
Needless to say I went home that evening with much less anger in my heart, and a day or two later the girl let me know that our status had shifted from 'not happening' back to 'maybe'. I asked her if I could finish putting in the bolts, so that we could free the route together the next weekend... She agreed.
Being a young impressionable climber who had missed out on the stone master era, I decided that the route ought to be bolted in proper style. And so some funny paper accompanied me on the final push to equip the line. What followed is a bit fuzzy in my memory although I remember getting into A3 terrain before remembering that I was supposed to be placing bolts, and had to back aid to get the bolts where I needed. Later I found myself unable to judge whether the edges I was trying to hook were sloping or incut, no matter how hard I concentrated the damn things kept changing shape! I passed this crux by throwing a sideways dyno out of my etriers to a small tree, which I am sure is a key hold for those who repeat the line still. This was the last time the paper ever came out on a bolting mission, I don't know how Bridwell made that all work back in the day.
Anyways, the lovely lady and I freed the route a few days later finishing on Cerberus. The route was such a success that she only dumped me once more before finally deciding I was alright.
Labyrinth came a couple weeks later, when my housemate Luke and I spied the dyke leading from Cerberus over to the Wrist Twister proj where the difficulties end on that line. Hopefully someone repeats that soon." MA LeClerc.
A Game of Dog and Squirrel 11-, Valley of the Lost Tribe. C Small, 2013
"Flirtatious teasing and chatter leads to a vigorous chase ending in bewilderment and lots of barking up the wrong tree. Pretty analogous to the first ascentionist’s attempts at relationships with female climbers". C. Small from Valley of the Lost tribe topo
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