Ultimate Everything

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
Loni
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Ultimate Everything

Post by Loni » Mon Aug 04, 2014 9:55 am

Someone has removed the last bolt from the top of pitch #9. It protects the crux step across move and has always been there. Would be nice to have it back please. thanks! :)

Jonny5
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by Jonny5 » Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:27 am

The bolt is missing or just the hanger?

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MorganM
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by MorganM » Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:55 am

Just the hanger is missing.

There's solid gear you can get in the right crack/flake thing before you pull on to it. I don't think the missing hanger really changed the pitch too much.

SeanP
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by SeanP » Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:39 am

I was thinking that pitch felt a little more spicy than it used to. There is also a missing hanger on the final pitch belay.

Loni
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by Loni » Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:05 pm

You can get gear in if you are tall enough to reach across before pulling the move but for someone 5'2" that is not so easy! The fall would be big and a pendulum!!

Fulch
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by Fulch » Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:53 am

I feel your pain with the 5'2 issue. I lead that pitch about a month ago and had a moment to look down at the last draw. Definitely some sort of fun swing and even some cheese grater action. You can get in a solid piece but holy cow when your short just reaching to make that happen can be interesting.

scrubber
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by scrubber » Fri Sep 05, 2014 5:57 am

Missing hangers have been replaced by good Samaritans.

Eduard Fischer
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by Eduard Fischer » Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:50 am

I found the hanger to be missing yesterday Sept 7.

Jonny5
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by Jonny5 » Mon Sep 08, 2014 6:34 am

Well that didn't last long...

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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by NateDoggOG » Mon Sep 08, 2014 12:16 pm

Someone apparently thinks that a bolt isn't necessary when there is natural protection nearby.....?

Eduard Fischer
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by Eduard Fischer » Mon Sep 08, 2014 1:18 pm

Actually it didn’t occur to me to try to reach that far to place pro before going for the move. Doesn’t necessarily mean I’m brave. Just stopid maybe. I know for sure though that the placement behind the flake would be impossible for my wife who is 5’— and probably for most women. And I believe the move is harder for shorter people anyway. In any case removal of the hanger has created an unexpected level of risk for shorter people on a route that has over the years gained a reputation as being well protectable. A 25 to 30 foot plus potential fall down cheese grater is not what people are expecting here; especially since this is one of the hardest free moves on the whole climb. This bit of vandalism is completely out of character with the nature and history of the route. And, I might add, is a piece of male chauvinist bullsh*t.

Jonny5
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by Jonny5 » Mon Sep 08, 2014 2:46 pm

I'm a noob. I was considering doing this route next since I succeeded at Butt Light on BC day. I will wait until the dust settles now...

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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by Isabel » Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:42 pm

"I don't think the missing hanger changed too much" (Morgan M). I beg to disagree, Morgan M. It could be the difference between life and death, or at least between a healthy life and a permanently mangled/ disabled life.

I have no idea who in their right mind would remove a hangar from this crucial bolt--as it seems that the hangar did not disappear on its own? It's certainly not over-bolted there, and it really is the wrong place for demonstrating "male chauvinist bullsh*t" (if there is any place at all). It made me irate yesterday, and I thank my climbing partner for being bold enough to lead that big step across with a long and potentially nasty run out so that we could finish the climb, which each of us have done numerous times in the past. No, putting pro into that flake to the right *before* making the airy step across is not an option for people my size (and I'm not a midget).

A big "Thank you!" to whoever will put a new hangar up there--and hopefully it can stay there.

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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by scrubber » Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:46 pm

I think there is something far more innocent here. I asked a couple of friends to replace the two missing hangers when they went up there a few of days ago. They said they only found the hanger from the top station missing. However, neither of them had done the route in a few years, and they think they just missed the hangerless stud on the 8th pitch.

I would kindly ask that if you find yourself heading up there sometime soon you carry along a hanger, washer and nut for a 3/8" bolt. I'll happily supply one to you, and even lend you a wrench for the day.

Kris

Eduard Fischer
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Re: Ultimate Everything

Post by Eduard Fischer » Mon Sep 08, 2014 8:14 pm

Thanks Kris, it was nice to see the missing hanger at the last station replaced. If I do the route again this season, I will have a hanger etc. with me for pitch 8.

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