dry tool on cacademon

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calamity
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dry tool on cacademon

Post by calamity » Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:49 pm

whats up with this route? the drilled one.
somebody yanked the hangers. is that basic thievery or a sense of ethics?

Squamishmonkey
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Re: dry tool on cacademon

Post by Squamishmonkey » Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:22 pm

Hi Calamity,
A few years back I fixed up the route you mentioned plus the one to the left, replaced a few bolts, anchors, holds and installed a few ropes for winter dry tooling sessions. After using it during the winter and it seeing regular use by many I returned in the spring to clean everything away for the summer climbing season. My goal was to have it as a winter dry tooling crag, open to all and I only used existing rock damage (drilled holes) done by a previous generation of climber.
Upon my return in the spring I found that every hanger, anchor, hold and rope had been removed. I contacted the individual responsible and requested my gear back, which has been returned.

So to answer your question, thievery was not the reason. It was done for ethical reasons.
If I replace them and build the crag again it will be removed again.

calamity
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Re: dry tool on cacademon

Post by calamity » Mon Jun 02, 2014 4:10 pm

good to know. Thanks for the info.
Is that because it's drytooling? or because of the location/style etc?
Was it indicated that this would be the standard response to any drytooling development?

Squamishmonkey
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Re: dry tool on cacademon

Post by Squamishmonkey » Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:55 pm

I don't want to comment on their ethical reasons. They may choose to engage you online and answer your question, but I doubt it.

I think if you developed a dry tooling crag somewhere else there would be little objection? I might be wrong, any other locals have an opinion on dry tool crag development?

I started the process last winter and lost interest because the ice came in! So if you want to pick up the torch and carry on developing I would show you what I started?

Thanks
Eric

J Mace
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Re: dry tool on cacademon

Post by J Mace » Tue Jun 03, 2014 5:44 am

That was pretty fun, too bad it was taken down. Thanks for the effort.

Image

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