Beware. "Gold Metal Ribbon" Missing Hanger

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Sprucelee
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Beware. "Gold Metal Ribbon" Missing Hanger

Post by Sprucelee » Mon Jul 15, 2013 9:51 pm

Visitor here. Climbed the "Gold Metal Ribbon" (11b) above Bellygood Ledge and the last pitches of Millennium Falcon yesterday. Great pitch, though after climbing through the difficulties, to the first real stance before to the easier climbing toward the top, I was shocked by roughly a 25 foot run out to the last bolt. I then noticed a stud without a hanger at my knee. Studs in great shape, either a 10mm or 3/8", I'm not sure. I ended up tying a slip knot around the stud with 10mm sling and finished. It was scary. I wouldn't recommend doing the route unless you bring a hanger and a selection of nuts or until it's been confirmed as replaced.
Trevor

Paul B
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Re: Beware. "Gold Metal Ribbon" Missing Hanger

Post by Paul B » Wed Jul 17, 2013 12:44 pm

You're probably well aware of this but if you slide a nut up the wire and slip that on a stud it usually works pretty well once you've cinched the nut back up tight.

Sprucelee
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Re: Beware. "Gold Metal Ribbon" Missing Hanger

Post by Sprucelee » Wed Jul 17, 2013 8:14 pm

Great tip. As this is a totally bolted dike pitch, I had none.

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