do you think that having parties climbing above a helicopter rescue is safer than having them wait below?
give your head a shake and don't be a dick.
were you there?
As for rappeling off, anybody who goes up better consider the possibility of going back down wether its 1 or 10 pitches up, one rope or two. If you don't like the looks of the gully, go back the way you came and leave some rack if you have to.
I hope the busted leg turns out ok and much respect and kudos to Perry and the Squamish SAR
Perhaps those who think it's too dangerous to descend shouldn't be up there to begin with. (Just a comment from someone who once bivvied on the route and rapped into the North Gully the next morning.)
According to jesse james I made a bad call up there and collectively, we unnecessarily impeded some climbers, exposed them to undue hazards and generally effected a dangerous rescue.
For the record, here's a bit more information for the court of public opinion.
When I arrived at the ledge, all the climbers were at the base of the pitch the climber had fallen off.
If there was an issue with people getting by and moving on, I sure wasn't privy to it.
My immediate inclination was to sling the climber from right where he was, ASAP.
I advised the climbers of this and asked if they'd mind moving back down the ledge as far away as possible to minimize the tangle and keep them out of harms way.
They were totally cooperative and although they may have been understandably bummed about not being able to keep climbing, they never complained to me about it.
As mentioned upthread, I gave them a time frame for our work which would have delayed them till about 17:00.
They indicated they preferred to bail and it seemed clearly understood they wouldn't start rapping till we had finished the heli slinging operation.
As part of our mission profile we took note of climbers below on Borderline and determined it was unlikely we'd endanger them with rotor wash driven debris.
We also noted there weren't people on the pitch above as the rotor was within 7 meters of the rock during the operation. If anyone had climbed past the injured party, their presence on that pitch would have created additional challenges for everyone.
There's no "cookie cutter" or clear cut formula for situations like this and it's best to deal with each challenge in it's unique context. There may be cases where having people climb by is the best thing to do.
In this case, while our response was far from perfect, I think we all made the best of the situation and should be grateful for the outcome rather than critical of some perceived inconvenience.
I'm sure the last thing on the rescue crews mind is how they might be inconveniencing other parties. They have a job to do, which they will attempt to do as quickly and seamlessly as possible. The injured climber(s) are their priority. Not the third parties.
I think that Perry and the rest of the crew would have made what they felt were the best decisions in that situation, and instead of questioning their judgement, we should be thanking them for a smooth operation.
I was one of the climbers in the party of six (3 rope teams) on Angel's Crest. I was at the belay above p7 when I heard a yell from below and saw our friend swinging above the deck. I called 911 and was in communication with SAR.
First of, I would like to express my personal thanks to SAR and Perry and his paramedic partner in particular for their professionalism and quick response. We saw them mobilizing in a timely manner and getting to us ASAP. Were it not for their help, the situation would have been much more risky and complicated beyond words.
Second of, we did not let the other two climbers from Quebec that followed our fallen lead climber friend to avoid hampering rescue efforts. As Perry pointed out, it would be risky to have climbers above while there's a rescue happening. The Quebec climbers fully understood and agreed it was best to wait until the rescue was over. Thank you guys for being so understanding. Me, my partner, and the two climbers from Quebec rapped down to the North Gulley using our two 70m ropes.
Thirdly, the accident happened on lower part of p7 (5.10a). It happened where one has to pull the over a bulge to the right. The climber's foot slipped and his last piece of pro was about 3-4m below. He free fell about 2m onto the ramp, and this is probably where he broke his ankle, and then slid down another 3m until his piece caught the fall onto the deck.
Fourthly, the fallen climber is an experienced climber with many years of climbing in Squamish and the alpine. This was an unfortunate slip that was not protected adequately. The fallen climber has undergone surgery on Sunday and is now in good spirits recovering.
Finally, I wish all climbers to be safe and enjoy the great outdoors we have on our doorstep.
Please let me take the blame on my shoulders. There was nothing else you could do better under the circumstances. I have nothing to feel but be so lucky to have such unseeing luxury to get help while playing on the rocks. In the end why should one care when some A$%^#@ lost the bet against the rock?
So much appreciation for what you've done all that day!
My sincere apologies to everyone whose day out climbing was interrupted because of me were having my day off last Saturday.
To those who always wakes up grumpy; it’s till the day the sh*t is going to happen to you…
To those who feel invincible - every time can well be your last one
Hi Stas and Adrian:Stas wrote: So much appreciation for what you've done all that day!
Thanks for posting your perspectives and filling us all in on the details. Best of luck for a speedy recovery. I'm glad this accident was professionally handled by Squamish SAR.
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