Climb and Punishment

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AaronRN
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Climb and Punishment

Post by AaronRN » Mon Apr 08, 2013 12:11 pm

So I was out climbing at Penny Lane today and noticed that the piton that protected the crux of Climb and Punishment 5.10d is now gone. This isn't too surprising given that fixed pitons are a bit passe these days. What was surprising is that a bread loaf sized block of rock apparently came off the route when the piton came out.
So here's the question.
WTF happened? Did someone proactively and unilaterally decide the remove the pin, only to c*ck it up, busting the block off in the process? If so, lame.
Or did someone take a fall to remember, rip the pin, sending a cannon ball down on their and their belayers heads? If so, E-gads!
Finally, so what's the grade now? The rock scar looks like it exposed a positive edge at the crux where the piton used to be.

Thanks.
Aaron.

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jonny2vests
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Re: Climb and Punishment

Post by jonny2vests » Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:20 pm

Dunno, but quite psyched to do it again in its new state.

scrubber
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Re: Climb and Punishment

Post by scrubber » Tue Apr 09, 2013 6:53 am

I've been meaning to remove that thing for years, just never remembered to bring a hammer up there. It was a time bomb. The number of folks who only have that clipped before launching into the crux moves is startling. I've witnesses multiple wippers onto it where if it hadn't held, the next piece was far enough down to not keep them off the ledge.

There was excellent protection both immediately above and below where the old pin was located. There may have even been a good nut placement behind it, but that seems to have broken away. Makes me wonder if the rock quality around the pin was already compromised and just waiting for a big pull.

Good riddance to blindly trusted rusty fixed protection. If anyone wants the pin from the crux of Neat and Cool that I pulled 12 years ago you can have it as a souvineer.

Kris

marc_leclerc
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Re: Climb and Punishment

Post by marc_leclerc » Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:53 pm

As bearbreeder mentioned I removed that pin sometime last Fall. After seeing many climbers take decent sized falls onto only the pin with no back up piece I figured it was a matter of time before someone pulled it out and hit the ledge. There are many bomber gear options right around where the pin was. I brought the subject up to a few locals and nobody objected. The pin came out pretty easily with no damage to the rock.

I noticed that a portion of the flake had broken off recently and was bit bummed as the route was one of my favorites in its previous state. Does anyone know how it affects the climb?

scrubber
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Re: Climb and Punishment

Post by scrubber » Mon Apr 15, 2013 5:48 pm

It looks like the pin was slightly lower than where that flake popped off anyways.

AaronRN
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Re: Climb and Punishment

Post by AaronRN » Mon Apr 15, 2013 8:58 pm

scrubber wrote:It looks like the pin was slightly lower than where that flake popped off anyways.
Nope.
I was able to find the busted block at the base. You know which one it is as it's the only rock with a piton shaped rust stain along its face, and one hand polished edge.

t-bone
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Re: Climb and Punishment

Post by t-bone » Tue Apr 16, 2013 7:22 pm

I repeated this climb on Sunday and found it markedly easier as you get a good left foot at the bottom of where the block came out... made it a grade easier imho.

geoffgeorges
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Re: Climb and Punishment

Post by geoffgeorges » Fri Jul 08, 2016 9:10 pm

not easier, less of a hold at crux move. good green alien right at top of missing hold.

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