Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

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MarkR
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Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by MarkR » Sun Jan 13, 2013 12:06 pm

Days are getting longer, sunnier. What's on your ticklist?

Multipitch:

The Grand: This will be my eighth climbing summer. Time to get real. I think I'm finally going to be strong enough to make this happen and I'm stoked. Hope the pillar stays up long enough.

St. Vitus and Right Wing: Got spanked by the enduro pitches on both last year. Working endurance all winter will hopefully get me where I need for these redpoints.

Bulletheads East: What's it East of? Had to bail after second pitch in October because my lady strained her back, but was great and wanna finish it off.

Sunblessed: Want to get a bit more confident in 5.10 to deal with the last pitch that I hear is run out. The fingers pitch looks like pure gold.

Centerfold: Looks so rad, onsighted the first pitch on a day of cragging in the fall, wanna go back for the money.

Great Game: I love Slnhay or whatever it's called, and I keep reading and hearing crazy things about this route.


Single Pitch:

Fair-means link of Exasperator

Wanna redpoint Jingus the Cat and Flex Capacitor

Bop til you Drop: This sh*t looks over the top.

Manana: Never even looked at it, but all descriptions make it sound like the sort of thing I love: long, continuous, fingers face crack

Caboose, Crescent Crack, Quagmire Crack, I've still never climbed at the Lower Malemute but went to check it out last year and the routes look amazing.

Perspective: Nightmare Rock is such a beautiful crag and I haven't climbed a thing there. This pitch looks intense and scary...gotta do it.


There's no way this Spring can be as drenched as the last two. I'm stoked to start early and reach new heights. What's on your list?

MarkR
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by MarkR » Sun Jan 13, 2013 6:55 pm

bearbreeder wrote:do nightmare this week ... sun shines right on it right around noon - 1 pm

i got some unfinished business there ;)
Ha. Thought i might wait until we start getting highs on the warm side of zero before climbing in the shade. Definitely hitting something sunny next weekend though.

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by gnarnaphobe » Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:08 pm

This place is a ghost town.

That's a bad a$% set of goals mark, you got it yo.

My aid goals are to solo uwall to the chimneys, Finnish zorros last ride before the winter ends.

I also wanna get up freeway and the Alaska highway, as well and red point all the free pitches on the grand and give the roman chimneys a go free .

And for single pitches I'm trying to red point all these pitches
http://thekidcormier.blogspot.ca/2012/1 ... e.html?m=1
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

Big T
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by Big T » Mon Jan 14, 2013 6:44 am

My plan is to aid solo: Uncle Ben's, Strange Brew, and Cowboys and Indians in preparation for El Cap In the fall! Now that it's out there, I'll have to deliver!

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by gnarnaphobe » Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:56 am

Cool Big T! cowboys looks rad! Are you going to solo El Cap?

If.we're mentioning our valley goals i got this bold idea of starting at the west end of the valley and wworking my way east climbing the major formations.
The leaning tower via wet denim daydream
El capitain via the.nose (iad)
Middle catherdral via the east buttress
Sentinel via the steck-salathe
Northdome via that slab route after royal arches
Then as a finale half dome in a day via the regular northwest face

pretty optimstic but i think by doing all the routes in single pushes i will be able to save energy not having to haul and with 2 rest days between routes i should be able to do them all in my 3 week time frame
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

Tricouni
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by Tricouni » Mon Jan 14, 2013 1:15 pm

Beckey turns 90 today. Might be time for some of the young turks to do Angel's Crest or Papoose One in honour of his birthday.... (take ice tools?)

Big T
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by Big T » Mon Jan 14, 2013 6:33 pm

Yeah Gnar, El Cap solo this fall is my overriding goal. Your valley list sounds killer. That'll be quite the season!

I guess I should add to my list to get my free climbing back up to a respectable level.

MarkR
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by MarkR » Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:10 pm

Damn, Luke. Those days in Murrin are going to keep you honest. Never looked at Astrologger before, that route looks crazy. Good luck, but even if you lose you still share some brews and tokes with a friend.

hans
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by hans » Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:29 am

Last year was good for me. I climbed a lot of routes that for whatever reasons, likely cowardice, I hadn't done previously.

This year, off the top of my head ....

Pipeline - this has been on my radar for a while but fear has kept me grounded. My wife bought me a Valley Giant for Christmas so I have no more excuses.

Boogie Till You Puke - definitely not with a hangover.

Freeway - not sure about this, but I'm going to give it a go

Parallel Passages - I've yet to climb something on the North walls

Solitary Confinement - on Prince Albert Tower in the Bugaboos, this looks amazing. Check it out on mountain project.

natsdad
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by natsdad » Wed Jan 16, 2013 2:38 pm

Whoa, Hans:

Those are some awesome plans: good luck. I had not heard of the Valley Giants, but checked out their website. Are they sold in BC? Do you own a VG9 or VG12?

I'm going to the bugs, too. I'll probably just do the trade routes. But SC looks very cool and super stout. I camped in East Creek Basin a few years back when doing the Becky-Chouinard. It's beautiful back there.

My goals are to climb with friends as often as I can and hopefully try some new routes.

cheers,
Steve

hans
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by hans » Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:29 pm

My wife ordered the VG9 directly from whoever the guy is that makes them. Apparently it fits perfectly on Pipeline.

If you go to the Bugaboos, make sure to get on Sunshine if you haven't already. Best route ever.

highlinestu
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by highlinestu » Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:10 pm

sounds like everyone is planing on having a kick a*# season! hope it turns out that way for everyone. my wish list!
Multi pitch

Stairway to Heaven- this link up looks like a truly great time!
Freeway-
Movin' to Montana- pretty much just for the last pitch, it looks beautiful! working your way across, just above the first overlap!
Shaved Bum- no climber in squamish hasn't looked up at the last two pitches and not wanted to be up in them butt cheeks eh eh?!?
Roman Chimneys-
The Crossing (free)-
Tall Skinny People- it just looks amazing
Pipeline- If i can find some one with the gear

Single pitch:

Horrors of Ivan- got on this orig in october after farrrr to much time spent bouldering. got my feet 2-3 meters above my last gear an my a*# hole puckered which was then proceeded by me down climbing and cleaning my gear, and hanging my head.
The masses are asses-
Hybertension-
Boogie til you puke-
The Scimitar-
Bruce lee vs the kiss army- really inspiring rig that one
Sandstorm- along with the other two nice looking burns in the cave there

will be heading to the bugaboos for a few week for the first time aswell this summer stoked for that!
I could go on and on! buttt i won't, i guess.

natsdad
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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by natsdad » Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:35 am

hans wrote:My wife ordered the VG9 directly from whoever the guy is that makes them. Apparently it fits perfectly on Pipeline.

If you go to the Bugaboos, make sure to get on Sunshine if you haven't already. Best route ever.
Hi Hans:

I sent you a PM.

cheers,
natsdad

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Re: Let's wake up the forum: 2013 climbing goals

Post by scrubber » Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:22 pm

Spring goals:
-Rejuvinate Movin' to Montana. My ropes are up there already and I've discussed with Perry what rusty mank needs to be updated.
-Finish some new moderate routes in the Smoke Bluffs I've been eying for years.

Summer:
-Finally do all of Norther Lights in one go.
-Maybe a rematch with Pipeline, but I'm scared...(Hans?)
-New Life
-Cerberus again (it's been so long it should feel like an onsight!)
-Dirty Little White Boys
-Magic Carpet Ride or Not your Normal Nightmare (or both!)
-Find a fun one pitch route to project occasionally. This is not my nature, so actually working something might be good for me. My normal form of project usually just involves mud and sore hands..

K

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