Slhany (sic?) - right wing

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bret
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Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by bret » Sun Sep 16, 2012 4:51 pm

Has anyone climbed the complete 58 m filibuster pitch without stopping at the luxurious belay?

It was what I had in mind but my elvis leg, empty harness, and exploding forearms refused to climb past the belay. Which is awesome (the belay), I never expected to see so many bolted stations here. I guess my expectations were too low, it would be nice to see such belays at every station :P

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by jonny2vests » Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:29 pm

bret wrote:it would be nice to see such belays at every station :P
I think they have their place, not sure I'd want to see them at every station though.

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by bret » Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:40 pm

sorry i guess sarcasm doesn't work well on internet forums.

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by scrubber » Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:05 pm

I've done it as one big pitch and loved it. However, you will need either a monstrous rack, or the confidence to run it out quite a bit between pieces to make an average rack last the whole pitch.

The half way belay was an original part of the old route. It's old 1/4" bolts were removed when Jeremy Frimer resurrected the climb several years ago. It seemed like the station was unnecessary with modern aidless tactics. Unfortunately, it was getting a reputation as a brute of a pitch, (which it is) and that was keeping folks off of it. Much of the concern was hearing about others running out of gear half or two thirds of the way up it. This led to the route beginning to fuzz over again. As a final attempt to get more people on it, the station was replaced as an optional stopping point, and the route was rebrushed. It seems to be working.

As one of the most visually striking features on any of Squamish's walls, and some damn fine climbing, you owe it to yourself to have a go at it.

K

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by MarkR » Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:15 pm

Climbed it today. No where near linking the pitches.

Seriously. That pitch is fucked up.

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by bret » Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:01 am

MarkR wrote:Climbed it today. No where near linking the pitches.

Seriously. That pitch is fucked up.
Where you guys in the tie dye shirts?

We had doubles and triples 0.5 to .75 and I had hardly anything left by the time I lunged for the platform :P Having said that I was placing a lot of gear, something I tend to due when I am getting pumped, and that pitch just doesn't let up!

Such a great pitch, not sure I can say the same for the 10d final pitch though :?

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by BlahMatt » Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:32 am

Did it as one pitch my second time up the route.. Was brutal but, there are a couple sort of rests you can manage if you know where they are. Placing gear is a major pain!

Stellar pitch though.

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by MarkR » Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:31 pm

bret wrote:
Where you guys in the tie dye shirts?

We had doubles and triples 0.5 to .75 and I had hardly anything left by the time I lunged for the platform :P Having said that I was placing a lot of gear, something I tend to due when I am getting pumped, and that pitch just doesn't let up!

Such a great pitch, not sure I can say the same for the 10d final pitch though :?
Haha, yeah that was us. The left variation wasn't so good eh? We did the 10c fingers variation that I've since read Dr. Frimer upgraded to 10d. After two days of punishment and 24 degree sun beating down on us things were getting pretty desperate. Haven't epiced like that in a while. Maybe ever. There was definitely some full on aid moves being made by me on that last pitch.

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by sibylle » Mon Sep 17, 2012 4:45 pm

Andy and I climbed it this August; and I thought the Filibuster pitch was brutal, even done in two pieces. I doubt I would have gone up on the route without the middle belay --- getting old and feeble, I guess!
sibylle

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by bret » Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:01 pm

MarkR wrote: There was definitely some full on aid moves being made by me on that last pitch.
haha ya we aided the end of filibuster and the final pitch is brutal with only 1 #4 and #5 camalot :o
leap frogged cams, and jammed my leg so far into that flake i thought about amputating it!

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by Sang » Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:52 pm

Climbed this beauty yesterday. Wow, what a climb!!

Living back in the Rockies now, it was a real treat to dive right back into some fierce granite corners. The intimidating discussion on here like "grunting like a pregnant rhino", "see stars and puke", "seriously that pitch is f$^%ked up" and "beat soundly with a two by four", had my partner and i a bit leery heading in. Especially with hangovers and finger pains.

Definitely a physical route but not quite as bad as the rep precedes methinks, especially if you break filibuster burliness into two pitches and make mad dashes for the anchors. Both my partner and I managed to onsight it and endurance has never been my strong suit....and i've been climbing limestone all season. Go get on er, its mega rad and the more traffic the merrier on this one!!

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by hans » Sun Sep 30, 2012 7:52 pm

Got on this today.

We used the hanging belay, alhough it seemed reasonable to link the pitches. The first corner pitch eats up 0.5 and 0.75 cams, while the second part used 2's and 3's at the cruxy bits. There were lots of rests from time to time, although there was a lot of tiring laybacking between those rests. It was burly and very intimidating, but certainly easier than I expected. Next time I will bring triple 0.5's and 0.75's, double everything else, and try to do the corner in one go.

The last pitch was quite something. We brought a 5, and I would have really like a 6. It's not oftern you get an overhanging kneebar on a trad climb. What a finish!

This deserves a place among the best climbs that Squamish has to offer. If you have yet to try this, do yourself a favour and get on it while the weather is still good.

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by bret » Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:29 pm

hans wrote:Got on this today.
This deserves a place among the best climbs that Squamish has to offer. If you have yet to try this, do yourself a favour and get on it while the weather is still good.

agree!! :D

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by Optimally-Primed » Sat Oct 06, 2012 3:51 pm

Greetings from Winnipeg! This thread is music to my eyes!

I'm so glad to see people getting eaten up by Right Wing. If you get your a$% kicked on this route, know that I know your pain. I sympathize. But as impossible as it feels... as it once felt to me, after 5 years of attempts, I did get the route clean. By the skin of my teeth.

I'm glad to know that the belay that I re-introduced is helping get people on it. That was the hardest single decision I had to make in all my days of route cleaning.

In my opinion, this is the best route I cleaned. Better than Rambles by a mile, Milk Road by a 1000', and even Skywalker by a few yards.

To those on the fence, know that you can rap from anywhere on the route with one 60m rope. Stainless steel chains all the way to the ground.

Been to Lake of the Woods climbing. Nice granite... but it's not Squamish. Tu me manque.

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Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Post by Sang » Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:11 am

Hey Jer - have you ever looked at the true corner to the right of eagles domain and bump pumice as a start to Right Wing as well? I never really gave it a good look, but perhaps it would make this a corner experience all the way and avoid line-ups for the beginning of Birds of Prey...would take a lotta pruning tho thats fer sure.

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