Squamish's stiffest routes...

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
scrubber
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 339
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 9:31 pm
Location: Squampton

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by scrubber » Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:51 pm

tendollarpants wrote:There's a 10a pitch that starts below Quagmire Crack. I don't have the guide book in front of me, but I think it gets 3 stars. All I got from it was super-pumped (making Quagmire feel extra sustained).

possibly the hardest 10a i've ever suffered through around here.
Wow, what an odd privilege. I started the post, and one of the first routes I put up when I moved here was nominated! (my routes are sometimes called soft, but rarely accused of being a sand bag) The route is called Canadian Compromise, by the way.

K

+1 on Red Nails (ouch!)

sibylle
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2010 12:17 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by sibylle » Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:37 pm

How about the 5.7 pitch on Merci Me? I comfortably led Banana Peel, the Snake, and various slab climbs in Tuolumne, and did not lead Merci Me.

also
Token Brits Direct with Scrubber and getting pretty worked
-- I agree,struggled on the end there.
sibylle

relic
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 67
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2011 4:45 pm

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by relic » Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:29 pm

What is the big hairy deal with Orfice Fish? It's all mostly jugs and handjams. Is the upper corner crack the hard part?

NateDoggOG
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 236
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:35 am

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by NateDoggOG » Mon Sep 17, 2012 4:37 pm

Pumpy.

User avatar
gnarnaphobe
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 279
Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2010 3:54 pm
Location: Squamish

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by gnarnaphobe » Tue Sep 18, 2012 6:49 am

In my (post-humbled) opinion tantalus crack is one of the burliest crack of the grade around..

It's like the width of the top meter and a half of the beaver for about about 15m! Although there is some rests and its not quite as steep the level of effort is far superior..

Friends of friends apparently set out for Cerberus (11d) and got shut down on the way by this beast of a 10a.

A full value grovel!
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

Brendan
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 714
Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:36 pm
Location: North Shore

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by Brendan » Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:03 am

gnarnaphobe wrote:In my (post-humbled) opinion tantalus crack is one of the burliest crack of the grade around..
I would have to agree.
gnarnaphobe wrote:It's like the width of the top meter and a half of the beaver for about about 15m! Although there is some rests and its not quite as steep the level of effort is far superior..
I would also have to agree.
gnarnaphobe wrote:Friends of friends apparently set out for Cerberus (11d) and got shut down on the way by this beast of a 10a.
Although I do agree every should access Cerberus from the lower pitches at least once in their lifetime, I agree more with hiking up through the Bulletheads, climbing Moonwatcher .9 to access the top of T-Wall, then rapping down in two raps with 2x 70m ropes to the base, and climbing out with nothing but 16 quickdraws on your harness (and a sling/biners for the anchors and a belay device). After all, why haul a bunch of 6" cams up a sport climb.
It’s a much (much) more enjoyable way to experience the crux twin cracks on p2.
gnarnaphobe wrote:A full value grovel!
Also agree. Although the crack in the back is helpful, it pumps out your right arm, and is very hard to reach for the first few meters...

jstod
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:17 pm
Location: North Vancouver

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by jstod » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:14 am

Just because basking in defeat and humiliation is so fun I thought I'd revive this thread and would like to nominate "Never Say Never" on Gobsmacking wall to this list.

This one has caused me to totally re-evaluate my self-worth as a climber… perhaps it's just that overhanging off-hand jams to insecure finger locks to heady moves way above gear isn't "my style" :)

Regardless - great route - just f'n hard!!!

Julian

TravisMcC
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:20 pm

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by TravisMcC » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:44 am

When I got on that, I was just starting to feel confident at the 5.11b grade. That climb knocked me down a few pegs. OK, maybe more than a few...

marc_leclerc
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 77
Joined: Sun May 17, 2009 7:42 pm

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by marc_leclerc » Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:15 am

All the 5.12 pitches I climbed in the Yosemite felt easier on the onsight than similarly graded lines in Squamish. I onisghted 7 of 8 5.12 pitches I tried down there including supposed 12d stemming on RP's on El Cap. My track record in Squam isn't as good, it's not as soft here as people often suggest, unless ur talking 5.9's and 10's... which are easy everywhere but index.

bennygroundh20
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:06 pm

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by bennygroundh20 » Mon Sep 02, 2013 9:48 pm

Not a 5.12 climber, but one can dream i guess.. I felt like the Right Wing 10.d was pretty stiff, but then again I could use a workout now and then.

Jonny5
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 8:36 am
Location: Squamish

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by Jonny5 » Sat Dec 14, 2013 12:34 pm

Snorter 5.8 kicked my butt. Now mind you I'm a noob and this was my 3rd 5.8 trad pitch I tried to lead after the last pitch of Diedre and Easter Island, so I might not have a clue what I'm talking about.
Dru wrote:...
Clean Corner is pretty hard for a Squamish 5.8 too.
Thanks for the heads up :)

User avatar
gnarnaphobe
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 279
Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2010 3:54 pm
Location: Squamish

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by gnarnaphobe » Fri May 15, 2015 6:27 am

Thread resurrection..

Wankulator Feels pretty stiff but it's mainly just off the ground that is heady.

Genesis feels extremely stout for the grade, given the sporty crux moves above thin wires and a ledge fall potential.

I don't know what it is about Apron Strings but it feels quite stiff everytime.

From what I hear and the bloody hands Ive seen Wild Turkey is no "gimme".

What are some other routes around that seem to require more effort and headspace then the grade suggests?
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

maurop
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed May 13, 2015 8:55 am

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by maurop » Fri May 15, 2015 8:20 am

Werewolves of London (11a)

Pretty much had to aid through it. It doesn't help when your fingers are too big for the crack. The ego took a big hit that day.

ryanlynne
I'm New Here
I'm New Here
Posts: 9
Joined: Fri May 15, 2015 12:16 pm

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by ryanlynne » Fri May 15, 2015 12:21 pm

These three all have a little something special:

Bughouse Heights - Skullduggery 5.10a
Bughouse Heights - Fata Morgana 5.8
Respiration Rock - Coronary Bypass 5.10a

User avatar
jonny2vests
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 168
Joined: Mon May 28, 2012 7:38 am
Location: Vancouver & Sheffield

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

Post by jonny2vests » Mon May 18, 2015 7:08 am

scrubber wrote: Some of my votes would be:
2nd pitch of High Plains Drifter
The last couple of moves are tricky for a short arse, but I had more trouble with the first pitch, didn't bring enough gear though so it was taxing in more than one way.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 30 guests