Wow, what an odd privilege. I started the post, and one of the first routes I put up when I moved here was nominated! (my routes are sometimes called soft, but rarely accused of being a sand bag) The route is called Canadian Compromise, by the way.tendollarpants wrote:There's a 10a pitch that starts below Quagmire Crack. I don't have the guide book in front of me, but I think it gets 3 stars. All I got from it was super-pumped (making Quagmire feel extra sustained).
possibly the hardest 10a i've ever suffered through around here.
+1 on Red Nails (ouch!)
-- I agree,struggled on the end there.Token Brits Direct with Scrubber and getting pretty worked
It's like the width of the top meter and a half of the beaver for about about 15m! Although there is some rests and its not quite as steep the level of effort is far superior..
Friends of friends apparently set out for Cerberus (11d) and got shut down on the way by this beast of a 10a.
A full value grovel!
I would have to agree.gnarnaphobe wrote:In my (post-humbled) opinion tantalus crack is one of the burliest crack of the grade around..
I would also have to agree.gnarnaphobe wrote:It's like the width of the top meter and a half of the beaver for about about 15m! Although there is some rests and its not quite as steep the level of effort is far superior..
Although I do agree every should access Cerberus from the lower pitches at least once in their lifetime, I agree more with hiking up through the Bulletheads, climbing Moonwatcher .9 to access the top of T-Wall, then rapping down in two raps with 2x 70m ropes to the base, and climbing out with nothing but 16 quickdraws on your harness (and a sling/biners for the anchors and a belay device). After all, why haul a bunch of 6" cams up a sport climb.gnarnaphobe wrote:Friends of friends apparently set out for Cerberus (11d) and got shut down on the way by this beast of a 10a.
It’s a much (much) more enjoyable way to experience the crux twin cracks on p2.
Also agree. Although the crack in the back is helpful, it pumps out your right arm, and is very hard to reach for the first few meters...gnarnaphobe wrote:A full value grovel!
This one has caused me to totally re-evaluate my self-worth as a climber… perhaps it's just that overhanging off-hand jams to insecure finger locks to heady moves way above gear isn't "my style"
Regardless - great route - just f'n hard!!!
Thanks for the heads upDru wrote:...
Clean Corner is pretty hard for a Squamish 5.8 too.
Wankulator Feels pretty stiff but it's mainly just off the ground that is heady.
Genesis feels extremely stout for the grade, given the sporty crux moves above thin wires and a ledge fall potential.
I don't know what it is about Apron Strings but it feels quite stiff everytime.
From what I hear and the bloody hands Ive seen Wild Turkey is no "gimme".
What are some other routes around that seem to require more effort and headspace then the grade suggests?
The last couple of moves are tricky for a short arse, but I had more trouble with the first pitch, didn't bring enough gear though so it was taxing in more than one way.scrubber wrote: Some of my votes would be:
2nd pitch of High Plains Drifter
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