So what would make Squish not soft? Downgrade everything one letter grade except the Split and Apron Strings? Or are there specific climbs that are helium-bagged making everything seem softer?
Forgetting sport-climbs for now (which are a different beast entirely) what are some routes that, after finishing them, had you begrugingly admitting that maybe that onsight was a little too easy?
Rambles - fun stuff but 5.6, not 5.8
Angel's Crack - 10b in my McLane guidebook but felt like soft 10a
Turnip - 5.7 at most?
The Zip - Not sure about this one, but climbed it after Talking Holds the other day. I know Talking Holds is a stiff 10a but the Zip felt kind of breezy. Just throwing this out there, but what do you think this would be graded in the Valley?
Jeff and the Giant Reach (11c --> 11a)
Flying Circus (the same grade as Neat and Cool? Really? More like quarryman...5.
Kangaroo Corner (10c)
Jabberwocky (listed at 10a or b...I think i solid 5.8 but I`m a sport climber)
Hairpin direct 4th pitch... if you are used to squamish `thin face` climbing I think it has one 10b move going past a bolt (Bourdon put it at 11a in the new book)
Maybe not in Squamish, but I think everything at sully's is 2-4 grades off
As long as grades are consistent, I don't really care .. but I think I'm going to get spanked regularly when I move down to CA next month.
For me, all of YDS is broke, because it has no consistent definition. So comparing areas is tricky, because it seems to depend on how the guide book writer interpreted YDS. But lets pretend they all think it defines how 'hard' something is, rather than the hardest move, these are the ones I've done since I got here in Jan that I thought were gifts:
Jeff & the Giant Reach
Climb & Punishment
Special K at Sullys - definitely the winner, probably a number grade out
Thriller off the Void
Clandestine Affair (Direct Start)
Split Beaver (lol, not)
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