Just Can't Do It needs some glue

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Amuerte
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Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by Amuerte » Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:05 pm

One of the few good holds on the route between the 3rd and 4th bolt is about to blow. This hold could easily be glued if that type of thing is acceptable around here.
I would try but would probably make a big mess.
Anyone?

Brendan
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by Brendan » Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:58 pm

I thought Just Can’t Do It has already been "enhanced" :oops:

Amuerte
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by Amuerte » Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:41 am

Glue wouldnt be an "enhancement", it would be a "keep the route from becoming 3 grades harder".

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MorganM
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by MorganM » Wed Sep 05, 2012 11:56 am

Amuerte wrote:This hold could easily be glued if that type of thing is acceptable around here.
I sure hope it's not acceptable around here.

Dru
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by Dru » Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:52 pm

MorganM wrote:
Amuerte wrote:This hold could easily be glued if that type of thing is acceptable around here.
I sure hope it's not acceptable around here.
There is a route across the highway at the Sport Temple called Just Glue It and another called Glueteous Maximus. Why do you suppose they are called that?

glomeruli
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by glomeruli » Thu Sep 06, 2012 5:01 am

the forgotten wall has glued holds on several routes

dakine
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by dakine » Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:12 am

As does the circus wall...
DJ 1%

scrubber
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by scrubber » Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:54 pm

A reinforced hold is a far cry from chipping or gluing on something that was never there before. It's certainly not rampant in our area, but not unheard of either. A well done job can be close to impossible for the average climber to notice. A poor job can be a horrible mess and eyesore.

K

Brendan
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by Brendan » Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:27 pm

Don’t forget Sanctuary at Rogue’s...

dunndan
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by dunndan » Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:43 pm

I'm going to second this. The hold is unfortunately best at the top, and if I was 20lbs heavier it'd be off already. Chances are good if it doesn't get glue behind it this season, a freeze and thaw this winter could mean the end of JCDI as a 13a.

I'd be happy to get it done, glue suggestions?

scrubber
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by scrubber » Sun Sep 09, 2012 6:27 am

Use the stuff that is used for glue-in bolts. Hilti 2-part masonary epoxy is one option. You can probably find good info on the product on the Petzl or Fixe website. Here's one that doesn't require you to buy an expensive caulking gun. You'd have to be much more careful not to make a mess though....
http://www.fixehardware.com/glue_sikadur_adhesive.htm

Andrew Itkonen
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by Andrew Itkonen » Tue Sep 11, 2012 10:31 am

Just Glue It

tobyfk
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by tobyfk » Mon Oct 01, 2012 4:08 pm

Was looking at this route today (from the ground only). Has it been glued?

Andrew Itkonen
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by Andrew Itkonen » Tue Oct 02, 2012 5:39 am

Was looking at the route a couple of weekends ago and I'm not quite sure which hold you mean. The only hold I THINK could be the one you are talking about is a right hand side pull off to the right and not even used by many people. I have always used a hold further to the left and closer to the next hold. I don't think the climbablity of the route would be changed if the hold I THINK you mean came off.

Andrew Itkonen

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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue

Post by tobyfk » Tue Apr 02, 2013 3:56 pm

Andrew Itkonen wrote:Was looking at the route a couple of weekends ago and I'm not quite sure which hold you mean. The only hold I THINK could be the one you are talking about is a right hand side pull off to the right and not even used by many people.
This sidepull now has a chalk "X" on it, presumably to discourage people from using it. But, I agree with Andrew: the hold isn't critical to the route. Actually if it does break it might leave a better hold ...

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