Warriors of the Wasteland upper pitch condition
Warriors of the Wasteland upper pitch condition
Hi, I'm just posting to let fellow climbers know about the condition for Warriors of the Wasteland. I'm new to the area and I'm not sure if people already know about it but I thought it would be nice to post this.
According to the guide book, it seemed like we can walk off or rap on Planet Caravan so we only took one rope, but there was a loose block in the middle of the route that you would need to use as a hold so I would highly recommend bringing two ropes and rap the route.
The block was about 60cm x 20cm x 15cm, at the roof in between 5th and 6th bolt on pitch 5 (topo on Squamish Select page 129). It seemed detached from the wall and it wiggled when my partner touched it when he was leading. He ended up scrumbling in the bush to the right of the route. Since we didn't have anyone at the bottom to clear off the area, we didn't clean that block. It could cut the rope if it falls while a climber is using it as a hold.
Also, from traverse on pitch 7 to top of the climb was overgrown with moss and lichen. It seemed like no one has been up there for a long time. There was no anchor at the end of pitch 7, and if you wanna build a good anchor, you would need at least two 3" cams. The crack on pitch 8 widens so if you don't wanna run it out, you may want to bring 4" cam.
I hope this helps.
According to the guide book, it seemed like we can walk off or rap on Planet Caravan so we only took one rope, but there was a loose block in the middle of the route that you would need to use as a hold so I would highly recommend bringing two ropes and rap the route.
The block was about 60cm x 20cm x 15cm, at the roof in between 5th and 6th bolt on pitch 5 (topo on Squamish Select page 129). It seemed detached from the wall and it wiggled when my partner touched it when he was leading. He ended up scrumbling in the bush to the right of the route. Since we didn't have anyone at the bottom to clear off the area, we didn't clean that block. It could cut the rope if it falls while a climber is using it as a hold.
Also, from traverse on pitch 7 to top of the climb was overgrown with moss and lichen. It seemed like no one has been up there for a long time. There was no anchor at the end of pitch 7, and if you wanna build a good anchor, you would need at least two 3" cams. The crack on pitch 8 widens so if you don't wanna run it out, you may want to bring 4" cam.
I hope this helps.
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