Broken dowel on Wrist Twister. Consensus?

[Big T]

Hey all,

I was on the third pitch of Wrist Twister yesterday and retreated due to a broken dowel. It was frustrating because I was inches away from skipping it and clipping the bolt above. I'm looking for a consensus on what to do about this. I'm willing to supply parts and labor to put in a new rivet, drill a bolt, drill a bat hole, etc. I'm also willing to just leave it alone and bring a cheat stick. I don't feel like it was a case of pussing out and not being able to do the move. I'm 6'3" and was tip toeing in my top steps and was still inches away. This is located on a really blank section of rock on the bolt ladder, two thirds up the third pitch. I looked around for a hook placement or anything to get me high enough to clip that bolt. There was a leaver biner on the bolt below, so I feel like at least one party has been shut down in this spot.

Personally, I feel the best, most respectful solution is to epoxy over the broken rivet and drill a bat hole. The rating of C2 wouldn't be affected as it would go bolt- dowel- bolt- new drilled hook- bolt.

I'm all for respecting the first ascent style and I'm not a drill crazed weak sauce. I never climb with a cheater stick or drill on these routes.

Or, maybe I'm frickin blind, and missed an easy way past!

What say you?

[scrubber]

Personally I'd propose replacing the dowel with either the same thing, or a similar rivet. From my limited aid experience it seems like this will last longer than a bat-hole, and will keep the feel of the climb the same. A cheater stick is always part of my chicken-sh*t aid arsenal. You never know when one of those things will be missing, and I'm not going to bust out any hero moves above a big line of rivets.

K

[Paul Brennan]

You can get past the broken dowel by a cool, thought provoking, hook move on a block sticking out of a dyke just there. Its one of the more interesting aid moves I've done (hooked using my nut key and thought light thoughts until I clipped the next bolt). You're going from one beefy bolt to another, so its perfectly safe. Your feet don't even really go above the lower bolt by the time you clip the upper one.

I would suggest leaving the pitch as is, as that was definitely the coolest aid move on the route, it doesn't make the pitch in any way dangerous (maybe C2+ because you have to think a bit), and the section can be negotiated without another hole being drilled.

[Big T]

I went back a couple weeks ago and finished the route. I had decided to just leave it alone and stick clip the bolt above the broken dowel. Apparently, I was so fixated on doing that that I missed that hook move. I guess I am frickin blind! All in all, I thought it was a great route, with some cool moves. It would definitely be a lot different without all those fixed heads... On to the next one.