Gear for Butt Face?

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
Post Reply
Axilla
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:15 pm

Gear for Butt Face?

Post by Axilla » Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:55 pm

A friend and I are hoping to climb the Butt Face on Monday and I was wondering if I should bother bringing along a #3 cam. I know that it is not needed for anything on the south Apron, but I've never climbed Boomstick Crack or the Butt Face variation on the Buttress.

Thanks in advanced.

User avatar
gnarnaphobe
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 279
Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2010 3:54 pm
Location: Squamish

Re: Gear for Butt Face?

Post by gnarnaphobe » Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:00 pm

A standard rack to 2" inches will suffice
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

Lurch
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 252
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:26 am
Location: Whistler

Re: Gear for Butt Face?

Post by Lurch » Sun Jul 29, 2012 7:41 am

It might be too late but you might find boomstick pretty runout with no big gear. Good luck!

User avatar
psi4ce
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:29 pm
Location: Squamish

Re: Gear for Butt Face?

Post by psi4ce » Sun Jul 29, 2012 7:49 am

Boomstick is like a long traverse, too, so if you don't put your number 3 in there not only are you going to be unprotected, but so is your partner.

You are multi-pitch adventure climbing on the Chief. Why not just take a number 3?

NateDoggOG
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 236
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:35 am

Re: Gear for Butt Face?

Post by NateDoggOG » Sun Jul 29, 2012 2:18 pm

Boomstick will take 1s and 2s alright, but I don't recall there being any one area on there big enough for a 3. I actually don't think the Buttface itself needs a 3 either, however there is one move on the pitch before that where having one would come in handy.

Axilla
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:15 pm

Re: Gear for Butt Face?

Post by Axilla » Sun Jul 29, 2012 3:03 pm

Thanks for the advice guys. Sounds like I might be glad to have it, so I'll bring it along.

Lurch
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 252
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 4:26 am
Location: Whistler

Re: Gear for Butt Face?

Post by Lurch » Sun Jul 29, 2012 7:48 pm

Nate, Boomstick will take a 3 or a #4 friend at the start to protect the wide flake. The start can actually be very hard for a short second who starts to far over.

We simuled bananna peel and boomstick one time and when Nina got to the flake I hadn't protected the start and she had to dyno to get off Broadway.

It will take lots more wide gear up top but it's pretty easy up there and you can sling the tree.

natsdad
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 205
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:56 pm
Location: East Van

Re: Gear for Butt Face?

Post by natsdad » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:32 am

Hi Axilla:

I did the butt face yesterday. I used a # 3 Camalot on the approach pitches. On the butt face itself, it mostly takes finger-sized gear.

I'd definitely bring it for boomstick crack.

Have fun,
Steve

Axilla
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:15 pm

Re: Gear for Butt Face?

Post by Axilla » Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:17 pm

Thanks again guys. We would have gotten by without it, but it was definitely nice to have it for Boomstick. It was a really fun day out with nice cool weather.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests