Kangaroo Corner - what's in?

[jonny2vests]

Greetings. I'm a Brit, recently moved to Van from the UK (since Jan this year), love it, I hope to stay for many years to come

I was on Kangaroo Corner the other day and found it pretty straight forward. Problem is, I used the left arete for my left hand and foot, and I was left thinking at the end, hmmm, they can't be in because I don't normally cruise 11a 'test pieces'. But then it's not written up as an eliminate and at 162cm, I hardly 'lanked it' to reach the arete. So whats the deal?

[A-Rat]

When I did Kangaroo Corner I stuck too the crack with hands and feet and the odd step smearing on either side. It took quite a few tries and at one point I actually gave the far left arete a try although it felt to far off route.
I have seen quite a few others climb it the same way I went and I am assuming that is the way that reflects the 11a grade.

[scrubber]

You're not in the climbing gym. What ever you can reach without being on the route next door is "in". If you find it easy for the grade, then you're probably applying better than average technique to the route.

The term "trade route" would probably describe it better than "testpiece". It's very popular for a reason. It's easy for the grade and very short, thereby guaranteeing it's popularity as it (barely) hangs onto it's 11a grade. There's a reason it's the first 5.11 gear lead for about half of the folks here who have gotten to that grade.

Glad to have you as a new imported local! Enjoy the summer.

Kris

[jonny2vests]

Glad to have you as a new imported local! Enjoy the summer.

Kris

Many thanks Kris and all.

J2V