Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

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Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by squamish climber » Wed Apr 25, 2012 7:44 am

I’m writing a feature on Smoke Bluffs Park for Gripped. I wanted to get an unscientific survey on what people think are the top ten climbs in the park. I am thinking of climbs across the grade range.

Here’s my list, some of these are old classics it would be great to hear about some newer climbs.

Penny Lane 5.9
- this climb has everything that Smoke Bluffs is about, sunny exposure, nice views and beautiful crack climbing. I like how you get the difficulties over first with a harder boulder start, a perfect finger crack and than wider hands that goes on for quite a ways. Plus there’s some big ledges to stop and look around at the view.

Movin’ On Over 5.9
All right, it’s on Burgers and Fries which many people avoid to stay away from the noobs, but when this crag is quiet, it provides one of the best views of Squamish and Howe Sound. I like the long reach to latch on the crack and then jamming up.

Flying Circus 5.10a
Another climb on a busy crag, but it’s a classic for a reason. This thin crack requires some thoughtful foot placement, and it protects well.

Mosquito 5.8
Not your average 5.8, getting above the bulge requires a bit of a deep breath and then a committing layback. I like it. I like doing the Smoke Bluff Connection even more.

Laughing Crack 5.7
A relatively long one pitch climb that keeps a smile on my face

Octopus’ Garden in the Shade 5.8
This big-hand crack sometimes causes me a bit of trouble, you need to have you're jamming technique down, but when you do the climb is sweet

Ridge Runner 5.9
A fun intro to arete’s, you get the feeling of being out on the edge. Kind of a long ways to the first piece, I’d say this is a little stout for the grade.

Clandestine Affair 5.9
A mini-traverse into a nice finger crack, I like this climb for the variety. The crack is pretty steep too.

Crime of the Century 5.11a
Okay it’s above my pay grade but I like to paw this climb and imagine flashing it. Sadly I have to watch others make the thin finger locks and keep the focus to the top. It’s got to be one of the best finger crack climbs in town.

Joe's crack 5.9
This diagonal crack at Pixie Corner is under-rated in the guidebooks IMO. It’s kind of a unique climb where you traverse with both feet and hands in the crack. And then there is the typical Smoke Bluff sloper exit on friction, spiced up with pro beneath your feet.

Would love to hear about some of the new climbs on Lumberland, is there a classic up there? And what’s the best climb on Funarama - that crag is loaded with routes.
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by Lurch » Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:33 am

The best climb on Funarama is Funarama apparently.. I dunno haven't got on it yet.

One climb your definetly missing is Center Street 10c this 45m crack never lets up and has a nice sting in the tail at the top.

Image

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by Lurch » Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:35 am

What about Split Beaver 10b? Throw a nice offwidth in there.

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by squamish climber » Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:58 am

Split Beaver is definitely a contender, if there is such as thing as a nice off-width, that one is supposedly quite friendly. Centre Street looks steep. I would like to hear more about climbs down at that end. Someone recommended Supervalue and Turbocharger.
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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by hevyduty » Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:43 pm

Hey guys heres a selection of new or recleaned routes 10a and under.
Funarama Juneuary 5 .10a Hot 'n' Hevy 5 .9
Point blank 5. 9 IMP the best moderate on the crag!
Cabin Boys Wall , Dugh 5.8 Wet Dream 5.10a
Lumberland , Lower Tier ,Checkmark 5.6, Erica 5.10a. Crowdpleaser 5.8.
Upper tier ( Zephyr Wall ) One Shot Latte 5.9; Kristen 5.8 Coleen 5.8
Tunnel Rock . Easy Skankin,5 .8
All the above routes are clean ,have good anchors, good gear, and great climbing.These are just a
small selection,of the newer moderates being climbed and cleaned in the Bluffs right now!

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by squamish climber » Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:17 pm

Hey Hevy Duty I was hoping you would jump in.

Tell me about Point Blank, and those climbs named after girls, are they you're girlfriends :wink:

Whatever, those climbs you cleaned on Lumberland look awesome, can you give me a couple of descriptive lines?
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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by jstod » Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:31 pm

Someone recommended Supervalue and Turbocharger
Supervalue is definitely a top 10'er in the bluffs for me. Quite different in nature from a lot of other SB climbs with a mix of crack and face climbing, and it's pretty long too.

Turbocharger is fun too, but I wouldn't think top 10.

Also, you'd probably have caught this for your article, but I think Crime of the Century is still graded 11c.

Julian

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by Lurch » Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:43 pm

You should do two articles Dave. One for sub-10a One for 10-11.

Supercharger looks rad. Talking Hands beside Turbocharger is burly for 10a! Super fun route.

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by hans » Wed Apr 25, 2012 5:39 pm

+1 for Centre Street, Supervalue, Penny Lane, Split Beaver, and Neat and Cool.

I also like Partners in Crime, Geritol, Yorkshire Gripper, Climb and Punishment, and Wonderland.

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by Sang » Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:05 pm

+2 fer Centre Street. Climb and Punishment also

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by breadbin » Thu Apr 26, 2012 11:02 am

How about Asleep at the Wheel, up by Split Beaver? It's a bit longer than your average Bluffs climb and a bit more challenging than some Bluffs 5.8's. I liked it.

+1 for Octopus Garden in the shade, my first trad lead!
+1 Funarama - to me it lived up to it's name!

Not sure if we're allowed to mention it due to some issues with access to it, and I have only followed it, but the Zip too was fun.

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by SinglePitchEpics » Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:47 pm

Pretty good list, all-in-all. For a 10a and under list, I'd also voice my support for Octopus Garden in the shade, B 'n F (almost everyone I know who learned to lead in the area can remember their first time... ). Quarryman would not be out of place either.

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by J Mace » Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:32 pm

Heavenly Ladder and Orfice fish, solid 9's

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by gnarnaphobe » Fri Apr 27, 2012 8:43 am

My favorites include

-Wonderland with the smoke bluff connection approach

- ridge runner

- Paul's crack

- pennylane

- s and m's delight

- partners in crime

- crime of the century

- neat and cool

- octopus garden in the shade

- the split beaver
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

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Re: Smoke Bluffs Park Top Ten Climbs

Post by squamish climber » Fri Apr 27, 2012 8:47 am

Several people here like the climbing at Split Beaver - Heavenly Ladder, and Orifice Fish, I'll have to check them out. Would you call them OW? Asleep at the Wheel is a climb I definitely want to get on.

What about On Toque Wall? I recall Finger, Fist and Hand was a nice crack climb then move onto a diagonal crack. Sparkletoast is mellow 5.7
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