Mysterious Anchor on Prow Wall

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Sonnie Trotter
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Mysterious Anchor on Prow Wall

Post by Sonnie Trotter » Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:08 am

Greetings. I'm wondering if anyone out there knows anything at all about the anchor placed above two gaping and alluring wide crack systems low down on the pan wall? They are steep, and located to the right of the Teddy Bear's Picnic and Colin's Gravity Bong. They seem to be apart of a massive detached flake with a precarious block perched on top. My friends and I dubbed it, the Pillar of Darkness. Because of it's ominous nature, and lack of sunlight.

While I was up there in the summer of 2010 I found an old anchor, but can't seem to locate anyone who knows anything about it. I heard a rumor that John F was up there, but in an email he confessed he's only looked at them, never climbed them.

I climbed the right side of it at 5.9 or maybe 5.10a. I accessed it from rappelling down from the gully between the first and second summits, a fun adventure. But getting to the other side of the pillar would likely involve hiking up from Gravity Bong. I'm just wondering what they are, if they've actually been climbed and if they are as scary and intimidating as they look. I feel like one day the whole thing just might topple over. I could attach some photo's for reference, but I don't know how. Anyway, Thanks for any leads.

Dru
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Re: Mysterious Anchor on Pan Wall

Post by Dru » Sat Mar 24, 2012 4:42 pm

I always wondered if those had been climbed. Isn't that the Prow Wall though?

Sonnie Trotter
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Re: Mysterious Anchor on Pan Wall

Post by Sonnie Trotter » Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:40 pm

DOH! Yep, Prow Wall, not Pan Wall, sorry for the confusion, Thanks Dru.

Here is a link to some pictures.

http://sonnietrotter.com/2012/03/22/any-beta/

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Re: Mysterious Anchor on Pan Wall

Post by squamish climber » Mon Mar 26, 2012 2:46 pm

Here are a couple of pictures from Sonnie's blog:

Right side of the "pillar of darkness" 5.9 or 5.10a
Image

Looking down the pillar of darkness
Image

Here's a wide-shot showing the pillar (in the centre-right of the photograph)
Image

Definitely a cool feature. Looks like you could almost pull it off by laybacking. Are the bolts on the pillar or just above it?
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Re: Mysterious Anchor on Pan Wall

Post by scrubber » Mon Mar 26, 2012 10:15 pm

Sonnie, I'd ask Hamish Fraser, or Peder Ourom. I know they explored a route out to the left of TBP back in '96 or 97 that dead ended about three pitches up. They may have also been poking around that pillar. If not, they may know who was. I just saw your complete route up there in the upcoming guidebook draft. Wow! Looks neat.

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Re: Mysterious Anchor on Pan Wall

Post by squamish climber » Tue Apr 17, 2012 11:21 am

It seems like the mystery is partly solved Tony Richardson posted to Sonnie's blog informing him he's been working on the left hand side off-width. And an approach pitch from Gravity Bong. Tony reckons the pitch will go at a 5.11ish grade and hopes to get on this soon. As for who put the anchors and bolt at the top -- that's still a mystery. Anyone?
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