Dry rock this time of year?

[gmcg]

A friend and I are hoping to get up to Squamish from the Island for one day (busy schedules...) in the middle of November. Our hope is to do Diedre into Buttface... Is there any hope in finding these dry? We could always do another route up the apron...perhaps Banana Peel or another slabby route dries faster? The Buttress is another option, as I am a bit skeptical that the north facing wall that Buttface is on gets much sun or wind...

Can anyone give me any faint hope?

Thanks!
Graham

[NateDoggOG]

I'm afraid that unless there is like two straight weeks at least of no rain, chances of any of those routes being dry are minimal. I went and simuled Banana Peel with a friend the other day, after about a week of sun, and the crux pitch was soaked. Scariest moment I've ever had while leading.
It seems that this time of year, it doesn't matter how much sun there is, if the temperatures aren't warm enough for the water to evaporate off the rock then routes will stay wet.
You'd probably be best off in Skaha or something, but even then I couldn't say for sure what conditions would be like.
Sorry to rain on your parade......








No pun intended.

[smallman]

Not likely. Especially on the Chief. The Papoose may have a couple dry longer routes but the most likely rock to be dry here in November would be on slab routes in the Bluffs. But even that is low probability. November is the month from hell in Squamish - too wet and cool to climb and not snowy and cold enough to ski or ice climb.

[c-plus]

bouldering in exposed areas is probably a better bet (i go all the time in winter). but most cracks will seep this time of the year and those big wet streaks on the apron are all you need to know about the conditions up there...

[scrubber]

Like smallman said, your best bet if you get a sunny day is the Smoke Bluffs. The sun hits Penny lane at about 10:30 right now (9:30 next week after we revert to standard time). In the afternoon the best spots tend to be Neat and Cool, Burgers and fries, and anything else with no seepage from above and no trees in front. It was lovely and climbable this afternoon.

[Fish Boy]

Just go aiding....

[slopr]

calculus, Stairway to heaven up to the top of tantalus, some stuff on papoose are all ok after 2 dry days. ok doesn't mean bone dry, it just means ok. Buttress would probably be wet @ the top whichever way you go, if i was you i'd do it anyways if there's a few dry days before you get here, A0 the 10c worst case, keep in mind that i'm an idiot so take the advice however you want. Despite all the raining & complaining there is always a lot of climbing around here all year if your willing to knock off the vaginacicles & get out there. Within 12hrs of the rain stopping there is dry rock, maybe not full height multipitches but if you know where to look there is some sort of climbing available & at least you are outside enjoying the day. Besides, fingering a wet crack is always a great way to spend your time. Stay positive & you have a chance

[gmcg]

Thanks for all your replies! I figured there would be no chance of it being dry, but I thought I'd ask anyways. Perhaps bouldering would be the best option. I won't complain about that

Thanks again!

[joewtc]

I climbed St. Vitus Dance, Boomstick and Buttress Variation today (Sun) and it's dry.