Wall of Attrition ??

[solojourneys]

Can anyone provide beta on the 'Wall of Attrition'? Supposedly it is the easiest free route to Bellygood Ledge, but I haven't found anyone who has ever climbed this route .. I'm wondering if the grade is accurate (11b/c) and if it is reasonably well-protected. Cheers, Jesse James

[scrubber]

The easiest free route to Bellygood would be Millenium Falcon, or arguably, Europa. Wall of Attrition does not see much traffic, so I'd consider bringing a wirebrush and leading with a nut tool to clean cracks as you go. It would be great to know what kind of condition it's in right now. If you do climb it please report back.

K

[Dru]

I saw this recent report/description of conditions on mountainproject

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wall-o ... /107256503

[BK]

we used to call it the Wall of Nutrition, due to the oatmeal and fibre quality of the stone, especially in the upper pitches. I remember the lower pitches having worthwhile quality, or at least some potential. I haven't heard of anyone climbing it in ages so I'm afraid thats all i've got.

[Squamishmonkey]

The first three pitches are okay and the grade is right...but after the long corner the rest is not worth climbing, loose, dirty and the last pitch to bellygood is poorly protected. I have climbed it but would not climb it again. There are 1000's of better routes.
If you really want to climb it take some small RPs for the last pitch and be sure you are comfortable pulling 11.b/c above marginal gear.
Thanks
Eric

[harihari]

I did the first maybe 7 pitches, which are pretty good. We bailed...

At one point, I was standing on a slab (barely) and reached up into where the rock gets crappier. There was a good horizontal, then another, and I heaved myself up, both feet off the slab, threw a left up and found a sideways slot big enough to accomodate me. So I wormed into it, and found myself lying sideways in this thing. In back was a pin. When I clipped it, it pulled right out. I reached out, felt around for gear, and, finding none, decided that I would rather downclimb the 8 feet to the slab-- and take my chances downclimbing the slab-- than whip onto gear crammed into rotten rock.

Roadie tried this route the same summer he freesoloed Alaska Highway and backed off. Kevin McLane says that it would be a great candidate for a major overhaul: bolts where the ancient shitty pins are, a good granola-scraping, and, low down, a bit of de-mossery.

[NateDoggOG]

I did the first maybe 7 pitches, which are pretty good. We bailed...

At one point, I was standing on a slab (barely) and reached up into where the rock gets crappier. There was a good horizontal, then another, and I heaved myself up, both feet off the slab, threw a left up and found a sideways slot big enough to accomodate me. So I wormed into it, and found myself lying sideways in this thing. In back was a pin. When I clipped it, it pulled right out. I reached out, felt around for gear, and, finding none, decided that I would rather downclimb the 8 feet to the slab-- and take my chances downclimbing the slab-- than whip onto gear crammed into rotten rock.

Roadie tried this route the same summer he freesoloed Alaska Highway and backed off. Kevin McLane says that it would be a great candidate for a major overhaul: bolts where the ancient shitty pins are, a good granola-scraping, and, low down, a bit of de-mossery.

Was this on..... Saturday? I saw someone who I guess was you lying in some giant crack - I was at the base of the Buttress. Thought it looked pretty gnarly.

[harihari]

no, this was a few years ago. If we could get the cleaning/rockfall issues dorted, great rehab proj...Frimer?

I did the first maybe 7 pitches, which are pretty good. We bailed...

At one point, I was standing on a slab (barely) and reached up into where the rock gets crappier. There was a good horizontal, then another, and I heaved myself up, both feet off the slab, threw a left up and found a sideways slot big enough to accomodate me. So I wormed into it, and found myself lying sideways in this thing. In back was a pin. When I clipped it, it pulled right out. I reached out, felt around for gear, and, finding none, decided that I would rather downclimb the 8 feet to the slab-- and take my chances downclimbing the slab-- than whip onto gear crammed into rotten rock.

Roadie tried this route the same summer he freesoloed Alaska Highway and backed off. Kevin McLane says that it would be a great candidate for a major overhaul: bolts where the ancient shitty pins are, a good granola-scraping, and, low down, a bit of de-mossery.

Was this on..... Saturday? I saw someone who I guess was you lying in some giant crack - I was at the base of the Buttress. Thought it looked pretty gnarly.