Initial reviews of the climb were kind of negative, but I think the route has kind of been cleaned up and there is a better ending that avoid the bolt ladder. What do people think? Anybody else climbed it recently.
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb
Although I quite enjoyed it, I've never felt compelled to go back and repeat it. I think the subsequent reports of continuting loose conditions up there gave the impression that it was best to avoid and let it return to obscurity.
I'm glad I did it when I did. Nice to see that someone else found it to be a worthwhile experience.
Regarding the rating, I'd agree that it felt more challenging than a 5.7 at the crags but I think we expected that given that it was a new, long multipitch which was still a bit rough around the edges. Not sure I thought any of it was 5.9 though(which was my lead limit at the time.)
It felt a lot like the North Buttress on Middle Cathedral (Yosemite), and IMHO, Middle Cathedral is looser than this climb.
I love climbing at Squamish, and while it's not quite an annual trip, I'll come up at least another year. My son's a sophomore at Reed College, in Portland, so I drove him to Portland. From there, it's a short trip to Squamish. What a nice place to be in August!
They said they'd gotten their route information from V.O. C..
Perhaps, to avoid future confusion, the V.O. C. site could clearly describe the start of Europa?
Two parties were ahead of us on Millenium Falcon—a party of three higher up, and a couple in front of us. We noticed small pebbles coming down from the climbers above us (on M.F.)
Today, the three hopeful Europa climbers we'd found on M.F. told me that they saw three parties of climbers in front of them on Europa , and thus did not climb the route. Despite the (occasional) bad press here, it seems to be a popular route!
Wow, getting started on MF would be a rude awakening if you were expecting 5.7 corners!
While climbing at Arrowroot the other day (a party on pitch 2 of Crap Crags), my partner was hit by a cell-phone sized rock in the helmet.
I loved Millenium Falcon. I thought pitch 2 was stellar - my favorite on the route. Everything was clean up to the end of pitch 5.
The traverse across trichome ledge was partly in the forest, so I'd guess someone could knock stuff down from there.
Pitch 8, which ended in the tree, had a lot of loose stuff at the end, heading to the bolted ledge.
Pitch 10 had a little bit of loose stuff coming down, but pebbles. It also seemed sort of licheny to me, but then I'm not used to the NW growth you guys have.
Millenium Falcon is in good shape up to Bellygood, at least.
It might interest you to know that one of the climbers ahead of Sibylle and myself was Russ Clune. Another was Eric H., one of the principals in the creation of Borderline.
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