Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?

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andypl100
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Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?

Post by andypl100 » Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:10 am

Anyone climb it recently? Is it dry (assuming it doesn't rain heavily today!)?

Also, is the second at risk on the early traverse pitch? I'll be climbing with my wife, so need to keep it comfortable for her :) It sounds like the leader does a tension traverse? Will a long piece of mitigate the swing for the second?

Thanks

JSmith
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Re: Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?

Post by JSmith » Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:58 am

Should be all dry. Give the second a cordalette to lower off a bolt hanger (if needed) for the 11c(A0) traverse. An extra bolt was added recently to this pitch to make it easier to aid/second.

AVesely
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Re: Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?

Post by AVesely » Sat Aug 13, 2011 10:41 am

Just did it a couple days ago. All dry. A couple damp spots getting off the ground but good. For the traverse on P2 we used a small cam up high between the aid bolts and the anchors around the corner. I was seconding and felt safe with the anchors a few feet away. By the way, at the top of the P8 (10c) there aren't any anchors as indicated in the topo -- only a short dead tree stump. We used roots around the stump for a sling and belayed from above to prevent a potential big pendulum for the second.

mcfly
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Re: Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?

Post by mcfly » Sun Aug 14, 2011 6:06 am

The belay bolts are still there as indicated by the topo. You went too far on pitch 8 and passed them.

AVesely
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Re: Milk Road/Run - traverse question AND dry?

Post by AVesely » Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:26 am

Thanks for confirming. We really looked for them. Must have had our blinders on.

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