5.10 crack testpieces

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by t-bone » Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:30 pm

OK, in an attempt to wish away this early season monsoon, here is my list of 'desert island' climbs....not necessarily testpieces but my personal favourites. I used the criteria of no bolts, even though this eliminated some stellar pitches like Supervalue, Thrillar on the Pillar, Jingus the Cat, Borderline p3, Buttress crux pitch and Great Game p3.

1. Rock On p4 (full 50m)
2. Supernatural p1
3. Sunblessed p2
4. Seasoned in the Sun
5. Exasperator p1
6. The Zip
7. Angel Crack (or is this 10b?)
8. Angels Crest p10 (the 2nd last one)
9. Neat and Cool
10. Talking Holds

1. Split Pillar
2. Mercy Street
3. Apron Strings
4. Split Beaver
5. Blazing Saddles p2
6. Caboose
7. Hand Jive
8. Slap and Tickle (can't remember if this has a bolt?)
9. Little Testis
10. A Pitch in Time

1. Exasperator p1
2. Elephantiasis
3. Quagmire Crack
4. Peasant's Route p2
5. Rainy Day Dream Away
6. Bullethead East p2
7. Just Blessed
8. Closing Number
9. Bullethead East p4
10. Centre Street

1. Milk Run p4
2. Great Game p1
3. Straight Outta Squampton p1
4. Crescent Crack
5. Afterthought
6. Even Steven
7. Gord's Block
8. Hangover
9. Poultry in Motion
10. Right Wing p4 (only pitch here I haven't climbed but it looks awesome)

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by avit » Fri Sep 23, 2011 10:42 am

Anyone climbed Mushroom on the Papoose? It's 5.9, but it's a beautiful pitch of continuous handjamming. As far as testpieces go, this one's a nice stepping stone.

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by Brendan » Fri Sep 23, 2011 11:03 am


Mushroom is my favourite .9 in Squamish. A little testy if you are uncomfortable on your feet, and sustained throughout. A classic for sure!

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by MarkR » Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:52 am

Wanted to resurrect this thread. Since its inception it's been a source of inspiration for me in my quest to become a competent all-rounder 5.10 crack climber, particularly t-bone's post. Thought I'd offer my 2 cents for some 5.10 cracks that I felt real accomplishments for completing, or routes that have continued to stymie me:

Self Abuse (Bulletheads - Allegedly 10a): Amazing, balls-out handjamming and laybacking for 30m in an arch. Full-on.

Neat & Cool (Bluffs - 10a): Consistently pumpy and challenging. Legit for the grade.

Rock On p4/5 link (South Gully - 55m 10a): This thing is just such an amazing piece of continuous, challenging climbing. The crux is avoiding rope drag.

Caboose (Lower Malemute - 10b): This one took me several years, and I was a sweaty, pumpy mess at the top of that pillar on my redpoint.

A Pitch in Time (Bulletheads - 10b): Legit continuous handjamming in an awkward steep crack.

Bob 'Til You Drop (Cirque - 10b): f**k.

Hand Jive (Lower Malemute - 10b): Distinctly lacking in hand jams despite the name.

Elephantiasis (Bluffs - 10c): So legit, requires your attention for the entire route despite appearances.

Desperado (Bluffs - 10c): Serious pumpy layback/underclings on polished feet. Have fun placing gear.

Right Wing Filibuster (Slhnay - 10c): Jesus Christ. Demoralizing.

Squamish Buttress (Buttress- 10c): Lost the pin, I think it qualifies now. Some seriously challenging climbing on this route through non-locker fingers on steep stone.

Something Short (Bluffs - 10d): Strange that an 8m crack can be an endurance route. Heartbreaker section of ringlocks at the top. A contender for upgrading.

Gord's Block (Bluffs - 10d): In your face the entire way, like Something Short it requires all your effort to fight the pump despite its shortness.

And some 5.9 testpieces while we're at it:

Golden Labs (Bulletheads)
March of the Kitchen Utensils (Cirque)
Chewbacca p2 (Shannon Falls)
Reacharound (Murrin)

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by Tony Diaz » Thu Aug 27, 2020 4:41 am

Of the sites u hav mentioned, Thrillar on the Pillar, Jingus the Cat, Borderline p3 are my favorites. Planning on my hood cleaning company to go digital, once done, will join u guys..happy squamishing...

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by JohnnyPhelps » Tue Sep 01, 2020 2:12 am

I agree that the Filibuster on Right Wing is the toughest. I was on it the last time I went there. And yes, the pump will make the climbers puke for sure :roll:

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