Filming Advisory: April 26 to 29 clean corner

[The_SAS_David_Jones]

Hi Everyone,

SAS got a call from from TSBD Productions indicating they will be set up on CLEAN CORNER from April 26 to 29. They have request no climbing below CLEAN CORNER during this time period. Any updates will be posted on this thread should we receive them.

David J Jones

SAS co-director

[Tenn]

falcon closures?

[Brendan]

These are not falcon closures. It is a closure due to filming.

Just out of curiosity, how can people "close" a section of rock to other climbers when they technically have no power to do so? I have no intentions of climbing below Clean Corner in this crap weather, but if a visiting climber really wanted to do a route during one of these closures, what, if any, would the consequences be?
I can only imagine what means these people have to keep climbers off the lower routes. Urine for a good time if you look up when it starts 'raining'

[pbeckham]

"Just out of curiosity, how can people "close" a section of rock to other climbers when they technically have no power to do so?"

Technically, BC Parks can close sections of a Park and have the power to do so.
BC Park Rangers are technically peace officers with the power to enforce Park regulations and they are supported by the RCMP and CO's in this respect.

The film production is suggesting it's not a good idea to be at the base of the wall directly under Clean Corner while they're working there. It would be negligent for them to not make some effort to advise the public of such a hazard. BC Parks supports this recommendation and has included it in the terms of Production's Park Use Permit.

I guess if someone wants to test the authority of BC Parks and stand under a bunch of Grips wrestling a seven hundred pound camera crane at the edge of a thousand foot cliff, that's their business. Personally, I wouldn't recommend it.

By the way, filming (which includes additional footage of one of Canada's greatest rock climbers) is scheduled for completion by Monday, May 2nd. Regarding falcons, I visited the site with BC Parks and it's observed and believed that this year the falcons are nesting closer to the Black Dyke. We haven't had so much as a "drive by" by these fearless and magnificent creatures.

Thanks again for everyone's understanding and support.

P. Beckham

[J Mace]

Thanks for the info Perry

So just to clarify, since clean corner is pretty much smack dab in the middle of the falcon closure and you and BC parks say its no problems, does that mean Freeway, Milk run et al are open for business all summer long?

Thats great news!!!!

If clean corner and the climbs to the right do close after filming for part of the summer would you be able to discuss why?

However as you said,the authority BC Parks, has already declared the nest to be far enough away to have that part of the wall open, then I suspect we wont have the usual closures this year.

Thanks for the info

Stoked to have that part of the wall open for the summer!

falcon closure map

http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Fr ... Notice.pdf

[pbeckham]

J Mace,

I think you're making some pretty big assumptions and suggest you direct your questions on these matters to BC Parks.

[J Mace]

I was taking your visit to the falcon nesting site with BC parks to be official.

I guess all we can glean from your post and visit with BC parks is that there is no falcon closure at this time.

This kind of info would be awesome to have posted up front and on the SAS website for everyone to see.

Instead of posting what generally was the respected closure dates

Since the mid-1980’s Peregrine Falcons have been returning to nest in the Dihedrals Area. Climbers have observed a voluntary closure to protect the nesting falcons from disturbance. Following up on this effort by climbers, BC Parks places restrictions on certain routes from March 15 - July 31.

Thanks again for the info you do have

Cheers

[pbeckham]

My visit with BC Parks was official but I'm not authorized to do anything but abide by the terms of the Park Use Permit and the conditions of my employment.
For the record, the comments I post on this public forum are not intended to represent anyone's views but my own. If I'm successful in disseminating accurate and helpful information without unfair bias, I'll chalk it up to the achievement of civil discourse. If not, I will stand corrected and work on any inaccuracies, hyperbole or bad tone.
Squamish climbers enacted voluntary climbing closures to protect falcon nesting sites many years ago through the efforts of the SRA and other access advocacy groups. I believe these voluntary closures predated the inclusion of the Chief in the Park system and were modeled after the closures used on El Cap. There has in the past, been flexibility on the closure areas based on knowing the exact location of the nesting sites. Hopefully this still applies. Based on my personal observations, everything from Trichrome Ledge south including Clean Corner, Freeway and the Tantalus Wall should be good to go this year. Trichrome to Zorro's would appear to be the most sensitive area this year.
Again, just my opinion, best to get clarification from BC Parks.

PB

[J Mace]

got ya

thanks for the info!

cheers

[NateDoggOG]

"I'll chalk it up"

Nice climbing metaphor

[The_SAS_David_Jones]

Hi all,

As Peter mentioned the falcon closures are currently being determined and should be announced very soon.

Thanks for your patience.

David J. Jones
SAS co-director

[slopr]

When was the last time the dihedrals did not have a spring falcon closure?

[scrubber]

When was the last time the dihedrals did not have a spring falcon closure?

Probably around 2001 or so (I can't remember the exact year). The falcons nested on a ledge out left of the belay on top of Perry's Lieback. This led to the Grand Wall being closed above the Split Pillar until August1. On the other hand, it meant that Freeway probably got more ascents that summer than in the preceeding decade.

Kris