Current condition of Cheakamus Canyon?

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Mattjw
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Current condition of Cheakamus Canyon?

Post by Mattjw » Tue Apr 19, 2011 7:45 pm

Hi

Im based in Whistler and having endured a winter of NO climbing, Im desperate to touch rock again! I was wondering what condition Cheakamus Canyon is in at the moment, in terms of how dry it is. I have never climbed there so wouldn't know how quick it dries after the winter! Alternatively does anyone have any other reccomendations to good sport crags(don't have my rack here yet!) in the area that will likely be in condition, are the sport routes on the Apron in condition for example!

Cheers - Matt

slopr
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Re: Current condition of Cheakamus Canyon?

Post by slopr » Tue Apr 19, 2011 11:48 pm

nordic main wall gets sun around noon this time of year and has some awesome climbs 5.9-12+ may be snow @ the base but chek will probably be the same. The top of the cliff is clear so go rap off some trees and set up a tr on something and get crimping. the holds there are awesome! Then you do not have to worry about leaving the safety of the whistler bubble and all the wonderful securities from reality which it lovingly offers for a few more months :lol: have fun, as well this spring check out the climbing on blackcomb @ spankys when it gets hot out. Creekside boulder will be ready in a month or so as well, cal chek too. you will never have to leave! never!!!

kirk
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Re: Current condition of Cheakamus Canyon?

Post by kirk » Sat Apr 23, 2011 1:01 am

Electric edge about 20 km north of the village looks good (some friends were walking the dogs there this week). It's on the way to pemby, just past where the highway crosses the train tracks (500m past the shadow lakes conservation forest parking).
Approach is about 90 seconds of hiking.

heres a link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41284976@N ... hotostream
there's also 4 new 5.7-5.9 climbs about 100m right - good for beginners/warmup (missing 1 or 2 bolts still though)

Also, Green river bastion just before pemby is south facing so a good bet.

BK
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Re: Current condition of Cheakamus Canyon?

Post by BK » Sat Apr 23, 2011 4:55 am

The electric edge you refer to looks a lot like Outward bound wall (half way between whis and pemby). Quality is somewhat marginal, in my opinion.

Green River Bastion however has some of the best in the corridor .... but also some of the worst. Essentially, the further left you go the better it gets. Shining city is excelent multipitch crack climbing but most everything else is sport. Pitch one of this dark century is 5 star! Most of the good stuff is a bit stiff, mid 5.11ish. Most of the easier stuff to the right is awful which I think accounts for its generally poor reputation.

At this time of year check for ticks

Another good quality crag is PowerSmart Wall, the obvious stuff above the Soo River. There is a cable Burma bridge crossing 1/2 km below the head pond wier, or a trail just past the weir. More edge littered sport routes in a very beautiful location.

Another crag which i know little about is Lillooet Edge at first switch back on the Duffy lake road.
I have heard that someone is currently reworking this crag and the quality is good.

Suicide is superb but alas sees little traffic so is getting a bit mangey.

One should note that almost everything noted here (except suicide) was a result of the work of Robin Barley and Friends. I say this for 2 reasons: expect the usual anchors but before you curse his name consider the huge contribution he has given us

BK
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Re: Current condition of Cheakamus Canyon?

Post by BK » Sat Apr 23, 2011 5:23 am

The Blackcomb stuff mentioned is normally good to go under blue skies - maybe not these days.
The Darned Gendarme at the blowhole is a must do! Pet wall sport climbing in the Alpine! I've climbed it in t shirts in February (south facing solar oven location). Just one thing: either take a couple of small cams to start - or do us all a favor and take a drill and bolt.

kirk
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Re: Current condition of Cheakamus Canyon?

Post by kirk » Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:21 pm

forgot about powersmart, a good south facing option, cool new cable bridge there too

stay away from suicide for another month or so too, shady and cool

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