Im based in Whistler and having endured a winter of NO climbing, Im desperate to touch rock again! I was wondering what condition Cheakamus Canyon is in at the moment, in terms of how dry it is. I have never climbed there so wouldn't know how quick it dries after the winter! Alternatively does anyone have any other reccomendations to good sport crags(don't have my rack here yet!) in the area that will likely be in condition, are the sport routes on the Apron in condition for example!
Cheers - Matt
Approach is about 90 seconds of hiking.
heres a link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41284976@N ... hotostream
there's also 4 new 5.7-5.9 climbs about 100m right - good for beginners/warmup (missing 1 or 2 bolts still though)
Also, Green river bastion just before pemby is south facing so a good bet.
Green River Bastion however has some of the best in the corridor .... but also some of the worst. Essentially, the further left you go the better it gets. Shining city is excelent multipitch crack climbing but most everything else is sport. Pitch one of this dark century is 5 star! Most of the good stuff is a bit stiff, mid 5.11ish. Most of the easier stuff to the right is awful which I think accounts for its generally poor reputation.
At this time of year check for ticks
Another good quality crag is PowerSmart Wall, the obvious stuff above the Soo River. There is a cable Burma bridge crossing 1/2 km below the head pond wier, or a trail just past the weir. More edge littered sport routes in a very beautiful location.
Another crag which i know little about is Lillooet Edge at first switch back on the Duffy lake road.
I have heard that someone is currently reworking this crag and the quality is good.
Suicide is superb but alas sees little traffic so is getting a bit mangey.
One should note that almost everything noted here (except suicide) was a result of the work of Robin Barley and Friends. I say this for 2 reasons: expect the usual anchors but before you curse his name consider the huge contribution he has given us
The Darned Gendarme at the blowhole is a must do! Pet wall sport climbing in the Alpine! I've climbed it in t shirts in February (south facing solar oven location). Just one thing: either take a couple of small cams to start - or do us all a favor and take a drill and bolt.
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