Squamish this summer?

[andreaJ]

Hi,

I would like to come climbing to Squamish this summer (we are from Italy) and I am trying to gather some information.
Our holidays are in august, so that's when we'd come.

How's the weather? Is it very rainy in august? heard it can be quite damp....

And we'd want to climb mainly long trad routes (5.8 to low 5.11's). How long should we stay to really enjoy the place? how big is it?

And what are the main climbing areas around? Meaning, within a 5 hrs drive range, more or less...

And... I don't know. I 've never been to Canada, so whatever tips (climbing and non climbing) you might have... bring 'em on!

Thanks for your help!
ciao,
Aj

[smallman]

Andrea:

July, August and September are the prime climbing season in Squamish when we tend to get long stretches of dry, warm weather. It is the best time to climb here. In fact, August can be a bit too hot requiring early starts to not get cooked on the Chief. In your grade range there are a lifetime of trad routes to climb in Squamish and if you go north to 1 hr to pemberton there are more longer trad climbs.

I would pick up Kevin Mclane's Western Canadian select Rock guidebook if i was doing a western Canadian road trip. It gives an excellent synopsis of the main climbing areas in Southern BC and Alberta. If I was planning a one time only longer road trip (a month or more) I would try to also to climb at Lake Louise and the Bugaboos. The interior areas in BC are much hotter and drier than the Coast so if for an extended rainy period there are the places like Marble Canyon, Skaha, Kelowna,(Canada) and Leavenworth (Washington, USA) to climb.

[squamish climber]

Hi AJ,

You picked a great time to come - August usually has the best stretch of weather. You could easily spend a whole month at Squamish and still leave many classics unchecked from the list. If you were going to go somewhere else as well I would recommend going to the Bugaboos, but to do more in a month you would be shortchanging yourself. If the rain craps out then you would probably want to hit Skaha as mentioned.

You can use the search function on this site to find recommended routes. For long routes you will want to hit the classics for example: the Squamish Buttress, Grand Wall, Angels Crest, Blazing Saddles, Milk Run etc.

I've heard visiting climbers will often buy a second hand car/mini-van, also known as a 'beater' instead of renting a car. Its sometimes works out cheaper if you are going to be travelling around for a long time. Check out Craigslist and/or post here.

Of course there's great camping at the base of the chief in the provincial park. If you want other options there are some great B&B's and vacation rentals in Squamish. One, Smoke Bluff vacation rental (smokebluff.com) is located right on top of the crags at Smoke Bluffs. Francois, the owner is a good guy , his place is popular with European climbers.

Write again with any specific questions. Folks here are happy to help.

[Sendage]

AJ,

Squamish is awesome! You picked a great summer destination. For accommodation you might also want to check out http://www.innonthewater.com/. It's a smaller hostel/hotel that is within walking distance to the Smoke Bluffs - the single pitch cragging area, as well as the Chief.

Vancouver - the closest major city to Squamish was just voted to be the #1 city to live: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/02/2 ... _Vancouver. So make sure you spend at least a few rest days exploring the city's culture.

Other than that you will definitely want to climb these long trad routes: Exasperator, Grand Wall (via Apron Strings), Rock On into the Squamish Buttress, Freeway (maybe near the end of your trip, it's 5.11+)

Hope you have an awesome trip!!

[andreaJ]

Ok,

thanks a lot for all the info

I'll gather my thoughts and perhaps write back with more specific questions!

Cheers!
a

[andreaJ]

Hi again,

I was wondering, what's the best guide book for Squamish? We'll only be climbing in Squamish (and are looking to climb mainly long, multi-pitch routes) due to time restraints, so the more specific the better, I guess ...

Thanks a lot!

[J Mace]

Vancouver has culture? They said they are from Italy not Manitoba, j/k

AndreaJ, I cant believe you will leave the dolomites for Squamish? You come from the land of long long trad routes...

August is busy here just like your place...

If you come all the way here, would be hard to go home after two weeks plus your going to get some type of weather day(s) too hot, rain, you know... come for 3 weeks.

Get the guide when you get here; you can get Squamish Select by Marc Bourdon, or the full list of climbs which may help you get off the beaten path if its busy,The Climbers guide to Squamish by Kevin McClane. 30 and 40$ respectively, CAD

Technical gear is cheaper here. Here is our slightly toned down version of Decathlon.

http://www.mec.ca/Main/home.jsp

If your gonna camp then you can buy your gas and such there, keep in mind our version of camping is probably not yours.

http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explor ... /stawamus/

Where in Italy are you from? I have been spending most or part of my summers in the dolos over the last few years so post up your trip details when you sort them and maybe we can trade beta...Ive got a date with the Vinatzer/Castiglioni on the Marmolada this summer.

Have fun planning

Cheers

J

[paolo75]

AndreaJ, I cant believe you will leave the dolomites for Squamish? You come from the land of long long trad routes...

Man, you made me cry! here's someone who really know what's good rock and real climbing: Dolomites!



I'm Andrea's friend, but unfortunately he's a barbarian and doesn't appreciate that wonderful, amazing places like we do.
I know I'm really gonna miss beloved Dolos this summer! hope Squamish is worth almost the same!



I only climbed the Don Quixote on Marmolada, the next time I want to go for the Vinatzer as well.
Consider the Messner exit, if you are fast and strong enough: they say it's the best combination for this route.

Thanks for your tips!