Red River Gorge sport climbing

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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mr_staggerlee
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Red River Gorge sport climbing

Post by mr_staggerlee » Mon Sep 20, 2004 6:53 pm

Is there any need to bring a 70m rope, or is a 60m good enough?

Thanks for any info.

searching for dry rock.....

Gary

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Post by Peter » Thu Sep 23, 2004 2:20 am

60 is plenty

mr_staggerlee
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Post by mr_staggerlee » Mon Oct 11, 2004 11:35 am

60 m was in fact plenty.

lots of great rock, very simple approaches.

The guidebook is not available, out of print and very outdated anyway.

Apparently, the guidebook author died a couple of weeks ago of a heart attack - while on the sharp end nonetheless! :shock:

The newly developed area is the Muir VAlley - lots of new climbs, and room for literally hundreds more - development is quite active.

Most interesting is the very positive relationship between the parks, private land owners, and the climbers. Only one crag (Pocket Wall) has been closed, all the others are very accessible with parking lots (free), and toilets to boot, whether on private or public land. Hats off to the Access Society!

For topo's, check out http://www.redriverclimbing.com

Highly recommended.

Gary

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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Mon Oct 11, 2004 4:05 pm

I guessin' you just got back.

I'm curious about a couple of things that the RRG has a rep for. Car break ins and the camping.

Any cars broken into while you were down there?

Where did you stay? Miguel's? Is that still a zoo?

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Post by mr_staggerlee » Tue Oct 12, 2004 12:00 am

Re: car break ins

According to the locals, car break ins are less of a problem than in the past. I was told it occurs less commonly in the park regions, but still a bit of a problem in the private areas. Though I never saw or heard of any break ins anywhere the whole week we were there.

Re: Miguels

quiet enough mid-week, but the during the weekend it turned into a complete ant hill..........lucky for us we didn't have to hang around too long during the busy time, though if you're looking to party it seems like a fun scene.

Camping at Miguel's is cheap and pretty decent (something like $2/night) - just watch out for the sites that don't drain moisture too well I'm told. Miguels also has the only decent food around to eat - good pizza. Apparently, the local cuisine in Central Kentucky consists of fast food chains and very little else.

We did the motel thing just down the street from Miguel's and cooked our own food most days.

G.

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Pete L.
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Post by Pete L. » Tue Oct 12, 2004 10:19 am

How much was the motel?

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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Tue Oct 12, 2004 11:32 am

Does it come with a kitchenette?

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Post by mr_staggerlee » Tue Oct 12, 2004 1:43 pm

Li'l Abner Motel (I'm not joking) in Slade. About 1 mile from Miguel's. If you blink, you'll miss Slade - 3 buildings, 2 of which are gas stations.

-- not to be confused with the Abner Motel in Stanton (10 miles north).

Large Room with full kitchenette was $60/night.

Number is (606) 663 5384
G.

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Post by Peter » Mon Oct 18, 2004 12:54 pm

I stayed at Miguels last fall. It's nice and cheap and a great place to meet other climbers. There are showers, cans, drinking water and a covered cooking area. Very important! When ordering his pizza don't go nuts on the toppings, get three max, it's way better that way.

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