UE or AC?

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Spaztic
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UE or AC?

Post by Spaztic » Thu Sep 30, 2010 10:51 am

We're looking to get on one this weekend (along with all the other city yuppies trying to get in one more day before the winter deluge begins).

I've heard they're both good, but which is better?

Which gets less traffic (if that's even realistic)?

Which is most likely to be dry?

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Cloudraker
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Post by Cloudraker » Thu Sep 30, 2010 11:30 am

I would think either would be climbable if you don't mind some wet sections. UE is easier and will definitely have some water to deal with, but it will be climbable.

I've only climbed AC when dry so can't say what it will be like given the recent rainfall.

But IMO these two routes aren't really in the same ballpark in terms of difficulty, exposure, and overall 'flavour'. AC was a full-on outing for my first time, and frankly it still is...

They're both great. Have fun!

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thebigchin
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Post by thebigchin » Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:25 pm

AC is way better. Much less walking through the woods. It's more consistent in the grade. More committing. More exposed. More adventurous. Harder to bail. More rewarding at the end of the day.

Get on it early!

Lurch
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Post by Lurch » Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:20 pm

I think mclane sums up AC pretty well.
Despite holding a fair bit of greenery and being slow to dry, it is very popular, offering grand views, fine situations and is especially pleasant in the heat of summer. It is longer and more tiring than it may appear.
I love the route but have never tried it outside of the heat of summer myself.

UE is also an excellent route, but way mellower and shorter pitches. Much less commiting for a first chief summit. Better make sure you climb fast! Not alot of daylight hours left this time of year! :wink:

harihari
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Post by harihari » Thu Sep 30, 2010 7:59 pm

thebigchin wrote: Get on it early!
no, get on the second shift-- every yuppie cunt and their girl/boyfriend will be on it at 7 AM both w/e days. worse even is you will find few parties of 3 (who will say to you the dreaded words "we'll be fast"). much better to sleep in and drinka few gallons of coffee and head up at 2 PM

scrubber
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Post by scrubber » Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:25 pm

Both will be wet. We've had some great sunshine the last couple of days, but almost no wind, so things are drying very slowly. On top of that, this time of year the sun is so low in the sky that UE only gets sun at about 4pm and AC doesn't get any at all. (For example Calculus Crack sees about 10 min of sun just before it sets!)

Angels Crest, as has been said, is harder, more sustained, adventurous, and committing. (harder to retreat from). The wet spots will probably be the crux face climbing on p3, p7, p8.

The Ultimate Everything is not very committing if you have a second rope, the wet sections are relatively easy, but they will be WET, (second half of p 1, p2, p4)

Have fun with whatever you try!

Kris

Spaztic
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Post by Spaztic » Fri Oct 01, 2010 7:08 pm

Brilliant. Thanks for the info.

Will bring snorkel.

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