So let me get this straight:smallman wrote:I disagree slopr. I would much rather have the polishing confined to a small area of climbs instead of spreading it around everywhere. And plus if you are a local you should have climbed the majority of the routes at the usual gumbie areas. The last thing I want is the secret less travelled areas in the bluffs not in the select guide seeing more traffic.
a)you are an advocate for keeping dirty climbs dirty
b)you promote polishing of classic climbs
c)you think that the bluffs contain "secret" areas!
great logic, you should join the VOC and put up some new multi-ditches!
Crowding of popular moderate climbs, and the resulting effects - polishing, route-hogging, convenience bolting - is undoubtedly a growing concern, and the interests of commercial climbers aren't always the same as those of the climbing public. And perhaps the VOC group could spread out a bit, and be a bit more imaginative as to routes and cliffs. Still, it's something of a grandparented situation.
Next - climbing has become a mainstream sport - do all of these people really need their first (and in many cases, only) outdoor experience to be on already-polished granite cracks and slab?
Many or most of them will have climbed on plastic before, and the transition from the somewhat natural movements of face climbing to the at-first technically bizarre and demanding slab and crack is an awkward one for most. I am aware the VOC does already travel to Skaha for other trips, but it seems like the extremely erosion-resistant rock of that area, combined with its penchant for positive edges, more "natural" climbing movements, and closely bolted routes for new leaders might make it a more appropriate venue for Longhike.
As Anders states, the VOC has a long history of involvement in the climbing community, but we are well past the days when the VOC was something of a leader in climbing and outdoor development and stewardship. It is no longer a club of explorers, trail builders, and Tolkien-range-namers; while several/many members still do fit this category, and still maintain huts and trails, the majority is now noobs to the outdoors and international students looking to make friends and ride slackcountry at Whistler. This is not a deridement of these members, but merely an observation that the history and precedent of longhikes past no longer represent what the day has become.
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