damaged fixed draws

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5.4 Slayer
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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:54 am

Hmmmm, a little sarcasm there Brendan?

It can be a very busy place, especially on the wet days.

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:17 pm

5.4 Slayer wrote:Hmmmm, a little sarcasm there Brendan?

It can be a very busy place, especially on the wet days.
I was more or less thinking ideally.
Thinking a little deeper into the situation, fixed draws on ALL sport climbs would be very unpractical given the visual aesthetics and I'm sure many other reasons.

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Post by dakine » Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:03 pm

replaced the 4 clip chain and mallion on the Fleeing heifer today (the mallion was 50% gone).
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more worn stuff

Post by dakine » Sat Oct 30, 2010 7:43 pm

Replaced the fourth? draw on Wayward bovine today with grade 70 chain, mallion, and a newish biner...

this was the carabiner .. still some life left
Image[/url]

this was the dogbone... 50% gone..
Image[/url]
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Post by squamish climber » Sun Jan 09, 2011 3:51 pm

The Squamish Access Society announced on their site recently that fixed draws on 10 routes at the Chek on Circus Wall have been replaced with fixed cable draws and stainless steel biners. The draws look like this:
Image
What do folks think?

The update mentions that the following routes were also retro'd as part of the phase 2 of their re-bolting initiative:
North Walls
All anchors on Alaska Highway 11d were replaced including the first rappel off Astro Ledge. In addition, the old fixed line for the approach to the base was also replaced with a newer static rope.

Murrin
Shaman Wall: The following climbs were re-bolted (including anchors as need be): The Shaman 5.10a, Tia 5.11c, Medicine Wheel 5.10d and Raven 5.11a.

Pet Wall: 2 anchors and 1 bolt on Beers are Not Enough (AKA Petrifying Wall, the original route on the cliff, 1970) 5.10d were replaced and Even Steven 5.10d received 2 new anchors.

Sugar Loaf: Tourist Delight 5.10b anchor replaced and a spinner was lock tightened on the Exodus 5.11a anchor
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