Best moderate-grade sport area?

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Spaztic
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Best moderate-grade sport area?

Post by Spaztic » Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:01 am

Where's the best place (outdoors) to take someone who climbs 5.8/5.9 sport, other than the obvious areas at Cheak (Well of Souls, Rouges, Conroy's)?

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Post by squamish climber » Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:39 am

I'll jump in here with some suggestions:

AMO wall - bolted multi-pitch. 5.6 to 5.8+ or so. May be too low in the grade but I hear it's nice climbing to take a beginner on a multi-pitch. Search AMO on this site.

Smoke Bluffs - Fatty Bolger/ Ferrets' Folly area 5.7s

Raven's Castle - top of the first peak. 5.7 and 5.8 again may be low in the grade.

I recall some bolted 5.8 and 5.9 on the Uppper Malemute -- sorry don't have the guidebook with me think they are called Moe, and Curly or something. Check the guide.
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Post by c-plus » Thu Aug 26, 2010 12:00 pm

Cal-Check has a couple walls full of moderates.

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Post by Spaztic » Thu Aug 26, 2010 12:17 pm

Thanks for the quick responses. Much appreciated.

Sadly, she's not super keen on exposure, so multi-pitches are out.

There aren't any topos for Cal-Cheak, eh?

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Post by Lurch » Thu Aug 26, 2010 12:34 pm

Whistler rock climbs has some topos. If you cant find that the first wall you come to in the forest goes .6 .8 and .9 from left to right. Then if you you keep hiking up you will come to the talus field and the first wall is monkey and weasel. It is .7 .8 .9 .10b .10c .9 .10a .8 from left to right. The ten c has a nasty move at the top.

Lots of other moderates there too.
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Post by slopr » Thu Aug 26, 2010 1:00 pm

I would recommend chuck-chuck, the lounge area has a few easy pitches on nice, clean rock with nobody around. Topo is available on this site. The only con is u need a bit of clearance to get there or it's a bit of a hike (40 min?). I wouldn't call the bolted routes @ the malamute "sport" climbs, they are slabs. Cal-cheak is a good recommend too, gets real hot in the afternoon tho.

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Post by Spaztic » Thu Aug 26, 2010 1:26 pm

Brilliant! Thanks!

What is this Whistler rock climbs that you speak of: a website, or an actual topo that's available? I poked around and couldn't find anything. It sounds pretty straight forward from your description, though.

Grabbed the topo for Chuck-Chuck. Do you need a 4X4, or just something with good clearance?

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Post by Spaztic » Thu Aug 26, 2010 1:29 pm

One other thing....and perhaps most importantly:

What's the best pub in Squamish?

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Post by Trick » Thu Aug 26, 2010 3:58 pm

You definatley need high clearance at Chuck chuck, but not 4x4. Last time I was there someone ripped a hole in their oil pan. Not good.

Most climbers head to the Brew Pub. It's the nicer, newer climbers pub. The Cliffside in Valleycliffe is often overlooked though; the food is better and the beer is cheaper.

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Post by Lurch » Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:48 pm

Whistler Rockclimbs is a guidebook. But i think it is out of print. which is why i gave you those descriptions. Chuck Chuck is good but not much there for the sub-10 climber.

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Post by slopr » Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:07 pm

Lurch wrote:Chuck Chuck is good but not much there for the sub-10 climber.
The lounge up @ chuck chuck has 5 pitches under 10a plus a few 10a's

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Post by c-plus » Thu Aug 26, 2010 10:05 pm

the whistler guidebook is quite out of date regarding the cal cheak area and doesn't include some of the recent, moderate, additions. Try page 226 of squamish select.....

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Post by Spaztic » Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:30 am

Got it - thanks. It didn't occur to that it'd be in SS.

Thanks again, eh.

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