Picture Topo will be posted SOOOON!
Info Can Be Found Here:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/intern ... /106863038
AND SOON AT:
Feed Back To Confirm Grades Would Be Amazing!
Where it crosses the SW gully (pitch 8-9) the bolted station is located in the middle of a wet streak about 6 feet wide and the "UFO" is gushing water out of all the horizontal cracks. We climbed up right of the gully to a gearless stance (4th class on broken rock) thencrossded the gully about 25m above the station, climbed a 5.6 corner right of the UFO and traversed easily to the bolt belay above the UFO.
On the last pitch the station and both bolts were also in large wet streaks so we made a gear belay (#2 and #3 camalots) up and left of the bolt station and then traversed off up and left into the rotten gully and up to the same ledge that the regular 14th pitch ends on.
Admittedly the variations we did skipped two of the three crux pitches as per the topo but I would say nothing that we did climb was harder than 5.6. Many of the pitches rated 5.3-5.5 on the topo are hands free roped slab hiking.
That said this is a nice bold climb, not overbolted. It is not as sustained or as difficult as Speedway and the rock is worse (crumbly cracks and junk on ledges in a few places) but still pretty good overall. I had a fun time climbing it.
We topped out onto the lower West Ridge and then followed the 1980 S. Flavelle/ K. Flavelle route to the summit. This was no harder than 4th class and pretty bushy. Did not want to rappel the ascent route due to the wet streaks and loose junk on some ledges. While walking off down the Yak hiking trail through the meadows we ran into a fat momma bear and her cub and had to spend half an hour yelling and throwing rocks to get her to move. Some other guys did Yak Check and came down an hour behind us and may have met the bears too. That said, the wasp nest I found on the trail a month earlier was totally gone - bears had dug it up and eaten the wasps.
Total time car to summit was about 5 hrs and car to car about 7.
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