well protected 5.10- route suggestion

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islander
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well protected 5.10- route suggestion

Post by islander » Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:46 pm

I am looking at trying some 5.10- single pitch climbs before I leave squamish and was hoping to get some suggestions from some people that know squamish well.

I would prefer routes that are well protected and are crack climbs.
I can comfortably lead 5.9 but haven't tried more than 1 or 2 5.10a routes yet.

Thanks for the help.

islander
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Post by islander » Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:49 pm

Can't edit my original post, but some routes I have been thinking about are:
The Zip 5.10a
Flying Circus 5.10a (though looks super polished!)
Pauls Crack 5.10a (how is the gear off the ground? I remember it being thin to start)
Jabberwocky 5.10a/b
Arrowroot 5.10b

Thanks

bradley3297
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Post by bradley3297 » Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:30 pm

Every route you posted has bomber gear hop on them all
Bradley

t-bone
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Post by t-bone » Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:44 pm

-p1 of Exasperator is perhaps the best 10a in Squish - and very well protected.
-Seasoned in the Sun is another good 10- with good gear
-Short Sentry at Nightmare 10a

In addition to the routes you mentioned in the Bluffs, you've got:
Nubile Woman
Talking Holds (a little burly)

Fre
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Post by Fre » Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:15 pm

5.10b S/M Delight, just left of Mosquito

jefffski
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Post by jefffski » Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:15 pm

wire tap
neat and cool
jabberwocky

bradley3297
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Post by bradley3297 » Sat Jul 31, 2010 7:38 am

JEff wtf are you on crack. neat and cool aint a 10 - for someone worried about the gear on the climbs.
Bradley

t-bone
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Post by t-bone » Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:39 am

agree with Bradley...Neat and Cool is definitely not a good first 10a. It has good gear, but you have to be savvy about placing it. Its also fairly pumpy, so you don't have all day to hang out at the overhang.

islander
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Post by islander » Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:52 pm

Thanks for the suggestions, I hope to try a few of those out soon!

Dru
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Post by Dru » Sun Aug 01, 2010 3:14 pm

Nubile Woman's probably the best one because it's really about 5.9 :wink:

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