Mr/Mrs Negative

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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dunndan
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Mr/Mrs Negative

Post by dunndan » Sat Jul 17, 2010 1:53 pm

The fixed draws on these routes are in pretty rough shape; dogbones tearing, mallions pretty chopped up from rubbing on the hangers, old biners not much better. Can this old gear be chopped/replaced? Does anyone know who put them up? I wouldn't object to doing the work/ donating the stuff myself.

The last couple groups I saw on these routes, myself included were placing their own gear anyway, might as well free up some space on the hangers, or replace them with safer ones.

Cheers,
Dan

dakine
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Post by dakine » Sat Jul 17, 2010 2:27 pm

yea I agree the ones on Ms. Neg are looking rough i was on it a couple weeks back and had the same idea. I have 9 BD draws that i'd be happy to donate..
DJ 1%

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flounder
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Post by flounder » Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:02 am

Likely most of us have draws that we could donate, but the clipping holds/positions on both routes are mostly very good and I think both routes are better without fixed draws. I was always happy putting my own draws in every time. The fixed ones will generally be unknown condition.

Mr. N especially seems to get a lot of seepage of water that has picked up a lot of stuff on the way down, and aluminum biners on it seem to get quite corroded quickly. The one below the face often used to stick open. I think I replaced it a couple of months ago.

Maybe effort and resources could be better spent just putting beefier biners and chains at the anchors. That does save time so that the next party can get on the route sooner because less time is spent cleaning when you are done. I've replaced the anchor biners on both routes at least once in the past few years with new ones; they get dangerously worn with all the traffic those routes get.

Unless we are prepared to inspect the draws regularly, maybe we are better off without them, anchors excepted.

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thebigchin
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Post by thebigchin » Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:49 am

Am I ever behind the times! When did we start leaving fixed draws on climbs? Seems lame to me.

Steve Townshend
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Post by Steve Townshend » Sun Jul 18, 2010 10:24 am

Fixed draws are common on many sport routes (not just in Squamish, but all around the world; that includes Squamish). After the Petzl Rock Trip Petzl donated many draws to be left on routes and told me to we should move there wherever was most appropriate.

Those old Petzl draws are getting pretty haggared! Personally i like fixed draws on some routes for the convenience (at popular sport areas... like Chek) and they are pretty much mandatory at other areas (like the Big Show) where cleaning isn't an option.

If you're going to fix draws. Chain is much better because it's more permanent. i have broken fixed sling draws (more than once!) and it can be scary/dangerous.
Sling draws are only a temporary solution, and when i am on a route with fixed gear/draws that are manky, i don't ask, i just remove them (and often replace them with my own gear/new ones; But if i don't have gear to donate, i just take the bad ones off and leave nothing). Half the draws on the Big Show are mine!

I haven't been on Mr. or Mrs. Negative this season, but there have been people on it EVERY time i walk past! so if those draws are sh*t, take them off.

I agree also that these two routes do not NEED fixed draws, but they are nice since those two routes are SOOOOO popular and i personally am not opposed to it.

Just my two cents.

dunndan
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Post by dunndan » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:28 am

alright, consensus is in, I'll get up there this week hopefully and take them down, unless someone beats me to it of course. I'll throw some replacements on it, and if anyone has some pieces to throw in, let me know.

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