Cacodemon aid routes

[coastal_climber]

Would it be frowned upon to do some of the nailing routes there as all the routes seem to be going free?

[Cloudraker]

Good question. This isn't Yosemite so you won't get crucified but some people may not be too pleased. I've done some aiding on Cacodemon (sp?) but I don't remember nailing. Definitely had a hammer with me though.....

Try to do it clean. Hybrid aliens, hooks ,cam hooks, etc.

[coastal_climber]

Cool. Thanks Graeme.




>Cam

[dirty]

Just curious...
What is your "motivation" for this?
Is it the inspiring lines?
Could be... none of my business... in this case fair nuff.

[peas]

The freed routes on Cacodemon are all bolted aren't they? In that case you should have good gear and should be able to do some dicier clean moves with some confidence. You'd just have to make it to the first bolt. I haven't climbed any of the routes free or aid, so I could be full of it...

If you're just looking for nailing practice, there are enough other routes out there that it's not necessary to stir the pot by nailing on Cacodemon.

[c-plus]

You can often handplace peckers or pitons into the pin scars where cams and nuts won't work. cam hooks work wonders too. no hammers needed!

[Dru]

Kinda off topic but what exactly are the Kakodemon routes that still don't go free?

Looking through my 1985 Campbell guide, Carl's Problem A4 is now Permanent Waves; Seaside Misery A3 is more or less Natural Reflex; West Face of 11 Bolt is now Archives; etc.

Dreamcatcher freed the start of Kloset Klimb into the finish of Rurp Riot. Has the original crack start of Rurp Riot ever gone free?

McLane guide lists Gavins Puple Sweater, Tarzan and Rainmaker as the existing unfreed aid lines as of 2005, and Rainmaker is right next to a free route (Funk Soul Brothers). Likewise Tarzan is basically just next to the Chip-it drill line.... which leaves Gavin's as the only real independent aid line left?

[Anders Ourom]

I believe that it's spelt "Cacodemon", at least in the Shorter Oxford. Not that I know much about Greek, or what the correct orthography in the English alphabet should be. It means "horrible demon". I wonder how it got the name?

The first part of Rurp Riot goes up the right hand crack, as seen from below. I don't believe it's been freed. The crack ends, then three bolts cross to the main crack. Except that those bolts may have been chopped. Apart from that, with tiny cams, cam hooks, and other gadgets, a clean aid ascent may be possible. Re-placing the bolts would also provide some protection on the upper part, assuming you didn't clip the 'free' version bolts. Not forgetting that Arnold Shives broke his ankle on the route in the 1960s.