Climbing on the Island (not at Horne Lake)???

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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Steve Townshend
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Climbing on the Island (not at Horne Lake)???

Post by Steve Townshend » Wed Apr 21, 2010 6:06 pm

Hey, i'm going to be in Gold River next week (an hour West of Campbell River) and i was wondering if anybody has any beta for climbing around there? there seems to be a LOT of rock in the area! are there any developed SPORT climbing areas or potential spots anybody know about that would be worth checking out?

Cheers,
Steve
SteveTownshend@hotmail.com

Dru
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Post by Dru » Wed Apr 21, 2010 6:53 pm

Crest Creek is on the way, and has a hundred or so routes including quite a few sport routes.

smallman
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Post by smallman » Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:16 pm

Here is a good website for the island's climbing. I heard that there is climbing around Courtney and Comox as well. The topo for crest creek is here. (RIP Drtopo.com) http://www.drtopo.com/submitted/crest_creek.pdf.

smallman
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Post by smallman » Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:17 pm

whoops forgot the link to coastal bc climbing site. http://www.coastalbc.com/climb/index.htm

smallman
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Post by smallman » Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:32 pm

an even better site for the island's climbing: http://www.islandclimbing.com/areas

the kydd
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Post by the kydd » Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:36 pm

Crest Creek has some of the best manicured trails to the crags that you'll ever walk. The Heathens have put a lot of work into their crags/trails! It's only about 15 minutes from Gold River.

A lot of mixed climbing, but there are some sport crags too. I think the majority of the bolted climbs run in the .10 - .12 area.

Not sure if all the topos are on Drtopo, but they can be purchased from On the Rocks climbing gym in Campbell River (you'll pass by it on the way to Gold River) has topos for $15. All the money goes to the local bolt fund.

Steve Townshend
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Post by Steve Townshend » Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:59 pm

Thanks for all the beta guys. I'll stop by the gym tomorrow if i get there before they close. If not, i'll still get one later. I'm psyched to hear that it is only 15 min from Gold River! now i really hope i get the job there! Is there potential for any new harder lines there? if i move there, i'll bring my drill and bolts, hopefully there's some potential for some harder lines too. If it's good, and i get the job, maybe i'll just stay and work/live there forever?! ha!

If any of you feel like climbing Saturday or Sunday (i believe i'm free?), e-mail me.

Cheers and thanks again for all the beta!
Steve

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Post by coastal_climber » Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:36 pm

Go to skidrow, its the newest area, the rock is amazing.

Do Arete Butler, White-water Rodeo, Salamander, Azen Wave, Come on Jam.

Make sure you talk to Chris B. prior to starting bolting anything, don't just start throwing bolts up.

There are aid lines that could go free in the .11+ to .12 range at Sunset roof, and the emerald wall. There are older routes that have grown over because of their harder grade.

If you need more info, email me, I can set you up with the locals to meet.

>Cam

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Canada Day

Post by VictoriaClimber » Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:54 pm

A group of 7 of us are going up there from Victoria Canada day long weekend and we will deff check out some of those climbs. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated for walls to check out....

Don
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Post by Don » Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:45 am

Hey Steve, A few years back, i met Dave Lepard in Squish, and he told me about the Dale Earnhardt dome which he had been putting routes up on.. always meant to go but didn't get around to it. I found a link to some info one of the routes, Wapiti Mainline

http://members.shaw.ca/eseedhouse/wapiti/dome.html

I also have a rough topo on directions to the area..pm me if you want a copy of the map. And if you get there, let us all know how it is! Cheers[/img]

Ed Seedhouse
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Post by Ed Seedhouse » Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:47 pm

Don wrote: I found a link to some info one of the routes, Wapiti Mainline

http://members.shaw.ca/eseedhouse/wapiti/dome.html
This is now well out of date so take it with a grain of salt, I haven't updated it in several years. I understand the last bridge on Nomash main is no longer drivable, or at least not rated for vehicles, so if that's right you'll have to hike an extra half mile or so to the fork camp area.

Also according to a recent post on the Island Climbing site the trails are pretty well grown over and one party gave up the bushwhack recently.

Fantastic climbing though, if you can persevere. Note that the bolts on the Mainline are were not stainless steel bolts on purpose. Dave believes that SS bolts fail unpredictably whereas normal bolts at least you can see when they are bad.
Ed Seedhouse

Victoria, B.C.

islandgirl
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Crest Creek

Post by islandgirl » Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:19 am

Hello fellow climbers!
Just some thoughts on Crest.....
The place is truly magical, with the most amazing climbs; really does leave you feeling like you are out in the middle of no where, surrounded by forest. The Heathens (as previously mentioned) are a great group of people who volunteer their time and energy into creating a climbing area, and trail system, unlike anything I've seen before. A weekend trip to Crest, will definately present a run-in with at least a few of these guys; usually free climbing routes they have memorized over the years! I've spent many weekends in Crest, and have come to know them well. They are truly amazing. The work they do (and you will have to see it to believe it!) is remarkable. They fundraise to purchase cleaning and trail building gear; currently selling T-Shirts and Hoodies to raise money for whatever they need...currently, I believe, its a chainsaw needed most!
The topos are hard to find, and not even close to recently updated. The theory behind this, is that the Heathen's simply believe the best way to know a crag, is to "get in" and socialize with those that know the area best! They are super friendly, and want to meet the people that are climbing in the area....conversations will lead to heaps of useful knowledge about the area! They also have an annual week long "work camp" for people willing to also donate time and energy to working on route cleaning and trail building! (July 2010)
To all those heading to Crest Creek: Enjoy!! and I'll probably see you in there!!!! I'll be the little girl, in the awesome cracks!
Tip: you will lose cell service just after Campbell River!
Groceries and such: Gold River (ten/fifteen minute drive out of Crest)...and no, you wont get cell service back in Gold River....pay phones only!
Great climbs in Skid Row (new area) and I love Crows Nest for "Levi's" and "Arete Butler".....but lets be honest....there are worthy climbs all through the area!!
Lots of trad and mixed routes....some sport...but really great Crack climbs!

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Post by islandgirl » Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:26 am

forgot to mention....majority of sport is at "Sunrise" area, I believe. But you'll definatley find at least a couple of great sport routes in most of the areas of Crest.

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