Visiting Squamish from the UK

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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butterworth_tom
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Visiting Squamish from the UK

Post by butterworth_tom » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:24 pm

Hello,
I am coming to Squamish this summer, from June to September and I have quite alot of questions! I'm looking forward to it so much cause Canada, and Squamish look amazing.

1) can anyone recommend me a campsite to stay at? Is there a place where climbers typically stay at where I will be able to meet people to go climbing with?

2) I will be mainly bouldering - where are the best bouldering areas?

3) I will probably be also doing a bit of sport climbing and will also consider some big walling although I have never done it before? This means I will need to meet climbing partners, what is the best way to meet people from the local scene?

4) This is probably the most important - where is good for a party? Not like drunken sing alongs to naff songs from my
childhood, but a full on party with pounding techno till 6 in the morning?

5) Are bears a problem?

I look forward to your replies.
Tom

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Post by corn_dog » Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:02 pm

1.Chief campground is probably the best to meet people
2.grand wall boulders are near the campsite, but get a book
4.Party is in the city, not squamish
5.Bears are awesome....

Dan

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Post by Brendan » Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:23 pm

Tom,

The Chief campground is located literally a stones throw from the boulders. It is the central hub of Squamish climbing during the summer months, and attracts hundreds of visiting climbers from all over the world. You will have absolutely NO problem meeting up with like-minded people there.

The campground is also a central meeting spot for most of the multi-pitch routes on the Chief. Once again, you won't have a problem hooking up with both gumbies and hardcore climbers from all over.

For sport climbing you will have to drive up towards Whistler. Just so you are not surprised when you get here, the sport climbing generally sucks ;)

Bears are generally not a huge problem--I'd be more concerned about the cougars :)

davis
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Post by davis » Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:54 pm

Pounding thecno till 6 in the morning will NEVER be the most important thing... however, the girls are back at it for 2010.. www.basscoastproject.com

butterworth_tom
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Post by butterworth_tom » Wed Mar 24, 2010 5:44 am

Cheers for the replies!
The bass coast project looks good.
I got the impression that the sport climbing was good in Squamish? oh well. I'm happier bouldering anyway.

pinner
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Post by pinner » Sat Mar 27, 2010 2:47 pm

The granite cracks are what is good in Squamish... the boulders are gems as well, but while you're heelhooking and rocking over, don't forget to look up, look waaaay up....

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Post by dakine » Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:25 pm

butterworth_tom

The sport climbing in squamish is good. Maybe not as good as the trad but well worth doing.
DJ 1%

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Post by pinner » Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:16 am

whoops, my comment was not to deter you from the sport climbing in Squamish - kind of missed that part. I'll agree with Dakine; the sport climbing is good, but is generally north of Squamish - about a 20 minute drive on the highway to the major centre - with other sport areas north of that again. There are precious few good sport routes actually "in" Squamish, and "Squamish climbing" (which for most people would include the highway north to Whistler and beyod, where the sport climbing lives) is not generally considered a sport destination.

"Chek" is the major sport area, you can "Chek" out a topo update of some of the newer walls and routes here: http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamis ... php?t=1549

The "Big Show" wall at Chek sports some heavy hitters, including what I believe was the first 5.14 in Canada

Have fun!

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Post by Anders Ourom » Sun Mar 28, 2010 2:02 pm

You should also consider visiting other nearby climbing areas, if you have the means. As you'll be here for 3 - 4 months, chances are at some point there'll be some rainy spells. Plus you may get bored, or run out of things to do. Other rock climbing in this general area includes:
1. Skaha: In the Okanagan Valley on the lee side of the coast mountains, and so drier. Maybe five hours drive from Squamish, can be quite warm in mid-summer, but also offers good swimming and camping and such.
2. Washington: There's good rock climbing at Index, Leavenworth (Castle Rock, Peshastin), and Vantage/Frenchman Coulee. Of course, you have to cross the border to get there.
3. A myriad of 'smaller' rock climbing areas - there's at least some climbing in the vicinity of most cities and towns.
4. Alpine rock: Lots in the Vancouver/Squamish area, and elsewhere. And of course alpinism, mountain hiking, etc.

pinner
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Post by pinner » Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:19 pm

If you're looking for mostly sport, Skaha is an fantastic spot, and drier and less-crowded too.

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Post by squamish climber » Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:39 pm

Hi Tom

All the above are good suggestions. Other crags with lots of sport climbs are the Petrifying Wall at Murrin Park and Fern Hill
http://www.squamishclimbing.com/topos/Fern-Hill.pdf

You might want to check out the club scene in Whistler if you're looking for full-on all night outings.

Try the search button to answer more of your questions.
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

pinner
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Post by pinner » Wed Apr 07, 2010 6:39 pm

Ahh! How did I forget the Pet! (likely because it's mostly too hard for me)


Definitely, what Dave said. Petrifying Wall is absolutely magnificent, go here. Fern Hill has a very different character than the rest of the rock near town, worth checking out.

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