Who chopped the bolts on Raging Duck?

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J Mace
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Post by J Mace » Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:20 pm

I have not climbed Pink Flamingo, a simliar route to the right. Is it bolted? Anyone have any input on how much action it sees?
yup I climb it all the time, good route with thoughtful bolts and protection, its always a hoot and always gives me a good time.

its clean and generally has chalk on it

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Post by marc_leclerc » Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:41 pm

Sorry, I didn't mean that raging duck should not have been retrobolted. I was just responding to the fellow that says if bolts make it more user friendly then put them in. I agree that Neat and Cool should not neccesarily be littered in death routes (exception: Bruce Lee Vs. The Kiss Army) but the bolt it if it makes it friendly mindset does not belong everywhere, and there is definitely a place for bold routes. Noy trying to be elitist sorry if I came accross that way...

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Re: Who chopped the bolts on Raging Duck?

Post by Tradrenn » Sat Feb 06, 2010 12:28 am

rolfr wrote:Please identify yourself and your reasons for chopping the bolts. As a first ascentionist of numerous routes, every time I clean , bolt or rebolt a climb , I am open to public scrutiny and accountable for my actions by the climbing community. I am constantly aware of this responsibility and try to weigh current climbing standards and opinions with every bolt I place. I take responsibility for my actions by publicly attaching my name to my these routes.

Please identify yourself and the rationalization behind your actions. Your actions have as great an impact on the climbing community as mine did when i created the climb. You are as accountable to public scrutiny as I am.

Anominity is at the least elitist, and at the worst cowardliness for not accepting responsibility for your actions. I realize that I do not have any ownership of climbing routes, but please respect my time, effort and financial contribution by airing your grievances in a public forum.

I await your reply before I take any action.


Rolf Rybak
I have climb your route and I have to tell you that one bolt would be nough, not 5. Other then that I don't really care, after all it was just a spurt climb.


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Post by pinner » Sun Feb 07, 2010 12:22 pm

Thanks for the clarification Mark. I wasn't taking it as elitist, just supposing that some might...

I get what you mean about the "user-friendly" mindset, although I can think of some areas where it might be valuable. They are few and far between, however, but I'm thinking of "Another Buttress" at Skaha, where the routes are (mostly) all easy and ridiculously closely bolted - it fits the wall.

In general though, I agree with you.

And thanks for the info on Pink Flamingo - sounds good!

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Post by slopr » Mon Feb 08, 2010 10:59 am

Was walking by here and it looks as though it has been bolted again, hopefully it stays that way. Chopping a retro is lame. If your going to go through all the work in chopping you might as well put that time and energy into retro-ing something new yourself and foregoing bolts if you feel that strongly about them, there's plenty of opportunity for that-especially in the bluffs. When a climb gets swallowed and someone takes the time to unearth it their vision should be respected, even if it does not exactly match that of the FA who's vision grew over and didn't get climbed for years. In Squamish time will always dictate what climbs are worthy and we should applaud those who give some of these forgotten routes a second chance. It is always your choice if you want to climb a route or not. If its not neat or cool enough for you then just keep walking.....

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