Sport Multi

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
dunndan
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Sport Multi

Post by dunndan » Sun Aug 30, 2009 7:45 pm

Can anyone point me in the direction of some Sport multi-pitch routes. I just moved from Toronto, and don't have the money for a mandatory Squamish rack after the move. From what I can see in Select there are a few pitches of slab at Shannon Falls and the gnarly Black Dyke. Is there something that has been put up recently the book doesn't have? Or can I fire up anything with just nuts?

thanks in advance!

dakine
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Post by dakine » Sun Aug 30, 2009 8:34 pm

Cool multi on the Chief " Stairway to Heaven" 18 pitches (I think) all sport 10b at the hardest pitch.
Several short multis at Chek (2-3 p) 5.9 to 10a most of them are at the wall called the Crest but there are several scattered around in that area.
DJ 1%

eresc
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Post by eresc » Sun Aug 30, 2009 9:33 pm


dunndan
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Post by dunndan » Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:12 pm

Stairway to heaven sounds like exactly what I was looking for. Might be a bit easy, but who knows how i'll feel after the first 9 pitches! Thanks a lot!

Steve Townshend
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Post by Steve Townshend » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:08 pm

The Black Dyke

dunndan
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Post by dunndan » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:14 pm

Does anyone know where I can find the Topo for Stairway?

eresc
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Post by eresc » Mon Aug 31, 2009 4:27 am

McLane's book has it

dunndan
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Post by dunndan » Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:42 pm

Without shelling out the ducats for the Mclane book, is anyone aware of any copies of the topo spinning around the web? is it on here anywhere?

harihari
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Post by harihari » Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:26 pm

dunndan wrote:Without shelling out the ducats for the Mclane book, is anyone aware of any copies of the topo spinning around the web? is it on here anywhere?
:D

Ok Dundan, we know you are,like, Fromtrono!, and we forgive you for it. But really. if you live here, and you climb in Squamish, you are going to have to do trwo things--

a) buy a rack
b) get McLane's book, and also Squamish Select (for the boulders and bolts)

So even if you can't afford the first, start with the second...if only cos it will make you start dreaming about the trad classics. Oh and btw, you can do a lot of the classic friction routes with nary a piece of gear. :D

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Post by t-bone » Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:31 pm

If Stairway to Heaven is too easy for you, go do Dancing in the Light....its a 5 star classic. The only piece off gear it takes is only for show anyway, so just take 7 or 8 draws.

But I agree with harihari....you need to buy a rack.....

harihari
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Post by harihari » Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:37 pm

t-bone wrote:If Stairway to Heaven is too easy for you, go do Dancing in the Light....its a 5 star classic. The only piece off gear it takes is only for show anyway, so just take 7 or 8 draws.

But I agree with harihari....you need to buy a rack.....
Ha, true...I want to be there when the sport climber from Toronto and his 8 draws take on some old-school friction. Those things can mess with your head.

dunndan
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Post by dunndan » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:23 pm

Don't hold the Toronto thing against me, I left as soon as I could. I'll go get the Mclanes book, although I've got both Select and Bouldering books. I'm all too stoked on slab, can ya'll let me in on some of the gems? I was hoping to get on 'local boys do good' next weekend as a start.


Or maybe one of you want to hit up 'crime of the century' with me?

dunndan
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Post by dunndan » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:26 pm

Am I going to have to get ANOTHER guide book for dancing in the light?

harihari
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Post by harihari » Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:33 pm

dunndan wrote:Am I going to have to get ANOTHER guide book for dancing in the light?
hi dundann-- we are just busting your balls, as tony soprano would say. you can find the Dancing info in the McLane book, and unless you climb 5.14 you can start yoru sport climbing in Squamish off at Pet Wall-- lots of classics there.

t-bone
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Post by t-bone » Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:56 pm

Dancing in the Light is also in the Select book.....

Local Boys (now 10d apparently) is a good way to start if you are concerned 10c is too easy for you. If you walk up Local Boys then amble over to Magic Carpet Ride and give it a shot. If you onsight that thing I doubt many people will give you grief about being from T dot.

only draws required.....

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