Post
by Anders Ourom » Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:31 pm
I was on the Apron this evening, to do some more graffiti-removal. (Report later.) Once I was done, I wandered up to Broadway, to see what could be seen, including sunset from the Baldwin Ledge - a lovely experience.
There was no rope on the lower scrambly part of the Broadway descent - from Boomstick Crack to where you start down the slabs. There was one rope (two segments from two ropes, perhaps 50 m total) at the upper scrambly bit, that coming down to the top of Diedre. I intended to simply take photos, which I did - I'll try to post some on Friday. But what I saw was rather scary.
The upper segment of rope was only 9 mm, the lower 10 or 10.5. The upper end was tied to a fairly small and not healthy tree, although there is a larger tree about a metre above. The rope went down about 15 m to a decent tree, was tied there, then went horizontally about 20 m along the 'usual' traverse crack/ledge to a tiny tree, then the last step to the ground. It would be unsafe to use as a handline, and not much help to clip into it with a sling and carabiner from a harness. The geometry and physics are such that if someone did so and fell off or even leaned on the rope (it was quite slack), and if the tree anchors held (especially the tiny one - a big if), you'd end up hanging well below the traverse, on steeper ground. That is, if you were clipped to it. The rope might be of some use at the top of the descent (the wide crack) - although it's not easy to hold a 9 mm line - but little more.
It takes little effort to belay the insecure through this area, if needed. There is decent protection. A diagonal rappel (or two short ones), ending in the tree bay right at the top of Diedre, is possible. All also options if the area is wet. Perhaps "short-roping" would be possible. The route is not inobvious. It would be hard to get to that point to begin with, without having some experience and skills. Climbers have been descending there for nearly 50 years without incident - although I'm sure a few had or wished for a belay!
In my view, the ropes as they were placed created a new hazard. I'm sure that those who placed them were well-intentioned, but the ropes do not make things safer, and may create a false sense of security for some. They would have to be substantially re-placed to be of more use.
These safety concerns add to my concerns regarding the lack of inclusive discussion before the ropes were placed, and the issues as to what if anything would be appropriate there, who should decide, and the precedent. Given this, and the coming weekend, I removed the ropes, without damaging either trees or ropes. The owners may re-claim them at their convenience - anonymously, if they wish. I hope that they will contribute to the debate about these matters. This forum doesn't necessarily represent all Squamish climbers, but may be one way for discussion to occur.
An open healthy discussion of this issue would be helpful. Should there be fixed anchors and/or lines along Broadway, and if so where and to what standard? Anything that would truly make the area safer (assuming it needs to be safer, given that 'safe' climbing' is an oxymoron anyway) may be quite involved. There are also many other similar places at the Chief, and Squamish generally - what should be done about them? My view is that important matters like this should first be discussed - they're not something for unilateral action by any climber or body. We share the park, not only with the public now, but with all those who will come after, and aren't free to do whatever we want.
I'll try to check back and post photos on Friday, as I'll be away over the weekend.